SainSmart Genmitsu 3018-PROVer V2 CNC Router Machine for Beginner, Mini Milling Engraver Kit with Z-Probe, Limit Switches, E-Stop, Ideal for Wood, Acrylic, MDF, Plastic (Without Offline Controller)

Cutting to the chase, this machine is great. It's built like a tank, assembly instructions were fine, and there are a ton of resourced available online. I got my machine on Sunday, and on the following Saturday was able to cut the piece in my attached picture with no issues. In fact, the only issues that any of my cuts have had were of my own making. The machine works very well. That said, prepare to do some learning, some troubleshooting, and some problem solving. This is my first CNC, but I have extensive experience with 3D printers, and they're the same way. This machine isn't there to hold your hand while carving out intricate masterpieces. It's a tool that you need to learn to use. Another reviewer said something like "8 hours of failure was too much." (I had the same problem that he did. It was solved by changing the "Safe Retracts" setting in Fusion360.) If 8 hours of failure is too much for you, then this isn't the machine you want. To make this (or really any CNC machine) "work", you will need some basic understanding of G Code, 3D modelling, woodworking, and electronics. You don't need to be a master at any of this stuff, but you're going to touch all of it. It will take time. You will screw things up. You will get sawdust in your hair. That's what makes these things fun. Now, more specific to this machine itself, I was very, very impressed. There are many very similar units on Amazon, and I selected this one because of the included upgrades, and the known brand name. I found the machine to be extremely well built, and straightforward to assemble. The inclusion of limit switches is important. While limit switches can be a bit frustrating, they are there to make sure you don't accidentally send the machine a command that will damage it, and the work perfectly for that. I find the offline controller to be wonderful. There seems to be a lot of hate for this part, but I like that I can run he machine "headless" and not have to leave a laptop in my dust shop. I actually had a much smoother experience using the offline controller than I did using the PC-based Candle, but they both do the same job. My motor doesn't wobble, isn't loud, and hasn't had any issue cutting through various woods at 300mm/min. I did several calibration tests on the machine as soon as I got it built, and didn't have to adjust anything. The only bad things about the machine are the hold-down clamps that are included (they work, but are the definition of "fiddly"), the included Vee bits (again, they work as they should, but why give me a bunch of Vee bits and no end mill?) and the size of the workspace. The 3018 is actually a great size for a small workspace like mine, where it will need to be moved and worked around, but just like everyone else, I'd love to be able to make bigger stuff. I've probably said enough glowing stuff about this device, but I'll sum it up, here. When I spend ~$350 on a piece of Chinese technology that's based on open source designs, I expect to get a pretty low-end product that I can usually upgrade to make it useful. In this case, I got a solid, well-deigned, functioning piece of gear. I haven't been this amazed at how well a cheap gadget works since the Elegoo Mars Pro. If you're looking for a cool tool with a steep, but fun learning curve, look no further. If you want to easily and quickly cut wood (or metal) parts with the push of a button, maybe wait a few years. Software That I Used: -Candle (included) for machine control -Easel (very limited free use) for design and GCode Creation -F Engrave (free) for GCode creation -Carbide Create (free) for design and GCode Creation -Fusion360* (free) for design and GCode creation -Inkscape (free) for image design *Fusion360 is the real workhorse, here. It has by far the most features, but also the steepest learning curve. If you're familiar with Fusion360, you'll have no trouble. Otherwise start with Carbide Create.

very satisfied so far, the assembly was not fast (more than hour to make sure that the wires are in the right place. Did run few projects very well

Small but solid CNC machine. This was the perfect machine to learn how to use a CNC machine. It's not powerful, but it makes very accurate cuts. As a hobbly machine, I have managed to make projects that were up to 10-1/4" x 12" x 3/4".

SainSmart 3018-PROver review and errata - January 18, 2020. The materials provided are good: heavy and well-machined aluminum, acceptable quality electronic and mechanical components and fasteners. The 3018-PROver is not nearly as “assembled” as the purchasing data indicates. You can download the assembly video or the manual and see for yourself - there are a couple of hours of assembly work, and there will be much consulting of the online manual, the video, and this errata while you are at it. The three major subsystems are mechanically assembled, but have not had the electrical components, wiring and many little parts mounted, and two major subsystems need to be bolted together. And since the instructions leave a lot for you to figure out, if you’re easily frustrated: choose another project. The PROver version is based on Open Source software and incorporates its own motion controller software: GRBL 1.1. It does not need to be connected to your computer while the router is cutting. Most people will use Open Source CAD software, which does not come with the unit. There is also a “3018 Pro MX3” version which requires that you purchase the Mach 3 software for $175, has a different main controller board and a different hand controller, and requires a Windows computer to run Mach 3 while the router is cutting. The 3018 PROver is a better choice for most people, as it avoids this expense and complexity. Mach 3 is motion-control software, not the CAD software. You will still need to find that. The 3018-PROver controller is based on Arduino. The main controller runs the GRBL 1.1 software developed for Arduino and comes with its own hand controller. Hand controllers for other models, like the one for the MX3 version, are not compatible. Source code for GPL-licensed software in this unit is not on the SainSmart web site as far as I can tell, and it looks like SainSmart still needs to learn how to comply with the licenses to the GPL binary software they distribute, and directly distribute the source code on their own site. I do not know what differences exist from the GRBL 1.1 developer’s source, but I suspect some might exist for the hand controller. This machine will be covered with chips after operation and will require some wiping down, including passing some sort of wipe inside of the T-slots. I will try to improvise a chip vacuum for mine, no such thing is available to buy. To find the assembly video, search for Sainsmart Genmitsu CNC Router 3018-PROVer Build. A few hits down from the top of the search on Google, there is a wiki page for the device at wiki.sainsmart.com . You can also find this directly on the wiki, but the indexing is based on SKU numbers. There are assembly videos for other models on Youtube, which you might find helpful. Most of the tools required for assembly are provided. In addition, you will need a wire cutter to remove two wire ties used as a shipping lock, and a container of light oil to lubricate the lead screws, and some electrical tape to wrap moving wires together. You will need to download the manual and display it on a big screen. That is the only way you will be able to see the photos adequately to be able to assemble the unit. The photos are in a printed manual provided with the unit, but too small and too low-resolution to tell what you should be doing. Here are the errata I noted during assembly: Step 1: You will need to provide your own wire cutter. Step 2: You are told to mount 6 wire holders, but the photo only shows where two of them go! The video is similarly unhelpful! The second two go on the opposite side, identically to the first two. The third two go on the outside of the frame, on the same side as the stepper motor, opposite the two installed inside. Step 3: The four wire holders mount on opposite sides of the metal piece. The photos don’t quite show this completely. Step 5 and 6: The long end of the distance tool is held against the back of the frame, inside the channel. The last slider nut should be against the end of the distance tool. Because of the distance tool, everything lines up well and the 12 bolts go in a lot more easily than I expected. Step 8: The square projection on the slide nut goes outward. Step 9: Peel the protective film off of both sides of the acrylic sheets. They are clear, tinted blue, once you do that. Hold the sheet so that it fits the shape of the leg of the Y-Z assembly. That is the correct orientation. Put the bolts through from the outside, and put the slide nuts on the other side by hand, one turn only. Orient the slide nuts horizontally, and then push the acrylic sheet to the channel so that the slide nuts insert into the channel. Turn the bolts, and the slide nuts will seat correctly. Step 10: There is an error on this page. Where they specify the Y+ and Y- connecting wires, they actually mean X! The VER- numbers are correct, Y should be X. The main controller is attached to two beams, each of which has four channels. The X- limit switch wire must be run behind the main controller along the top of the bottom beam, looping to the front on the side where the controller has the USB connector. The cover strip goes over the wire on the top channel of the bottom beam. Step 11: It may be necessary to temporarily remove the wire holders next to the limit switches so that there is enough space to insert the plugs into the limit switch sockets. Put the wire holders back afterward. Step 13: There are different plugs on each end of the stepper motor wires. Step 15: By “black cover”, they mean the black plastic nut on the barrel of the emergency stop button. Remove that and the square lock washer. Put the switch into the plate, and then put the lock washer on the switch from the back, with the pointy corners facing the metal plate. This button is unusual: push to stop, twist to release. Step 16: Whew! A lot left out here! You are supposed to pass all of the Z wires through a piece of the nylon braided web to protect them from friction. But the piece I was provided, although it can be expanded somewhat, doesn’t expand sufficiently to do this. I wrapped the wires with electrical tape. Operation Before you connect the router to your computer, you can play with it using the manual controller. This is non-intuitive though. I noticed that the files included on the SD card would run into hard limits (trip the limit switches) if run with the router starting in the home position. You will have to move X, Y, and Z close to the center of their operation before starting. The limit switches are confusing. If you are stuck on a limit, which is sure to happen, run the reset function. Move the stuck axis until it stops again - the limit switch will halt the system when it is set, and again when it is cleared! Run the reset function a second time. Then you can move the axis as expected. At this writing I am not sure if configuration will make this easier.

Ik ben zeer tevreden met de 3018-PROVer V2. Het product was goed verpakt en de handleiding is gemakkelijk te begrijpen. De meegeleverde software is eenvoudig te installeren en gemakkelijk in het gebruik.

Il pacco è arrivato con qualche giorno di anticipo, che mi ha lasciato molto contento. Il prodotto è ben impacchettato, tutto è tenuto ben fermo da spessi strati di polistirolo. Unico difetto, nella mia scatola dei bulloni ne mancavano 2 M6, ho contattato il supporto SainSmart che me li ha recapitati in meno di 4 giorni. Il montaggio è semplificato rispetto ad altri prodotti ma richiede comunque un certo tempo, io ci ho messo circa 1 ora e mezza a completare tutto, e non ho messo il proteggi cavo in nylon perché mi riusciva male. Sono comunque molto soddisfatto perché le risorse fornite (sul sito sono presenti anche video tutorial) aiutano moltissimo e non c'è nulla da fare di veramente complicato. Una volta montata la CNC si presenta esteticamente molto bene, solida e con un colore azzurro che mi piace molto. Io la vorrei utilizzare principlamente per produrre circuiti stampati di progetti DIY, le prime prove mi hanno dato molta soddisfazione anche se ho ancora molto da imparare! Nel complesso la consiglio a chi ha tempo e voglia di imparare e studiare le varie tecniche/tecnologie per la fresatura con la CNC, lo sconsiglio a chi invece preferisce avere una soluzione "plug&play" che faccia subito tutto bene senza bisogno di metterci le mani. Allego qualche foto, scusate per la mia scrivania super disordinata :) ==== Automactic tranlsation in English ==== The package arrived a few days in advance, which left me very happy. The product is well packed, everything is held firmly by thick layers of foam. One defect, in my bolt box there were 2 M6 missing, I contacted SainSmart support which delivered them to me in less than 4 days. The assembly is simplified compared to other products but still requires some time, it took me about 1 and a half hours to complete everything, and I did not put the nylon cable protector because it was bad for me. I am however very satisfied because the resources provided (there are also video tutorials on the site) help a lot and there is nothing really complicated to do. Once mounted, the CNC looks aesthetically very well, solid and with a blue color that I really like. I would like to use it mainly to produce printed circuit boards for DIY projects, the first tests have given me a lot of satisfaction even though I still have a lot to learn! Overall, I recommend it to those who have the time and desire to learn and study the various techniques / technologies for CNC milling, I do not recommend it to those who prefer to have a "plug & play" solution that does everything right away without having to get their hands on it. I attach some photos, sorry for my super messy desk :)

21年4月購入。殆どプリアッセンブリされた状態で、部品もコンパクトにしっかりまとまった梱包となっている。メカ組立は容易で、電気配線もリミット他モジュール盤を指定の場所に取り付け配線するだけで、線の長さもピッタリになっておりつけられた線番タグ通り接続するのみ。ビギナーとして始めるにあたり馴染みやすい。まだcandleを使って多少の彫刻加工しかしておらず、まだそれほど使ってないですが、木材で簡単な加工がすぐに始められました。装置ガントリ部固定ナットのうち１個に不良がありましたが、サポート(日本語)により、追加のナットを送付してもらえました。欲を言うならば、Ｚ軸ストロークがあと10~20mmあれば、使える工具幅も増えて使い勝手が向上するかと。同様に付属のプローブ厚みがもう5mmほど薄いほうがよいかもしれない。そしてアンチバックラッシュのバネは、もっと強いほうがいいと思います。 2022.6追記) 突然、Z軸動作不良でワークにエンドミルが喰い込み干渉のトラブル。調べた結果、ｚ軸モーターケーブルの断線と判明。本件、製造＆販売者のカスタマー・サービスへ連絡したら、素晴らしいサポート(日本語)対応で問題が解決。その他にも問合わせに丁寧な対応があり、購入後のフォローもなかなかしっかりしていると思います。

Ich habe mir diese Fräse vor allem für die Herstellung von PCB-Prototypen für meine Elektronik-Projekte zugelegt. Der Aufbau ist gut beschrieben und in ca. einer Stunde erledigt. Das Einfädeln der Kabel in die Kunststoff-Netze ist etwas fummelig, mit Geduld und einem Feuerzeug aber auch sauber machbar. Die Spindel ist relativ laut, läuft aber sauber zentriert und bisher sehr zuverlässig. Der Motor lässt sich auch günstig nachkaufen, falls etwas wäre. Der Bewegungsapparat hat viel Kraft und ist sehr präzise, die Steuerplatine ist sauber verarbeitet und bereits mit einer vorkonfigurierten GRBL-Version geflasht. Nach dem Aufbau kann es also direkt losgehen. Als Software wird eine ältere Version von Candle mitgeliefert, ich habe mir gleich die aktuelle Version von Github geladen. Damit lässt sich die Fräse sehr gut steuern, auch eine 3D-Vorschau und eine Heightmap kann erstellt werden. Ich habe mir noch eine zweite Krokodilklemme an das Kabel gemacht, um PCBs sauber ausmessen zu können. Für die Planung verwende ich meist Sprint Layout, als Präprozessor dann FlatCAM. Für das Isolation-Routing benutze ich ein 30° V-Bit mit 0.1mm Eintauch-Tiefe, dann einen 0.5mm Fräser für die Löcher und einen 2mm Fräser zum Herausschneiden. Bisher habe ich ca. 20 PCBs erstellt, die Genauigkeit ist auch für SMD absolut ausreichend. Fertige PCBs sprühe ich dann noch mit PCB-Lack ein, um sie vor Korrosion zu schützen. Auch Holz lässt sichgut bearbeiten, am besten geht natürlich weiches Material, aber bei entsprechend langsamerem Vorschub konnte ich auch mit Eiche gute Ergebnisse erzielen. Die Planung und das Erzeugen des Maschinen-Codes habe ich dafür komplett in Autodesk Fusion 360 durchgeführt, aber auch andere Software, die GRBL kompatiblen GCode erzeugt, kann benutzt werden. Die Reinigung ist aufgrund der schlanken Bauweise unproblematisch, und die mitgelieferten Verschraubungen halten das Werkstück sicher auf dem Tisch fixiert. Ich habe mir noch kleine Gummifüße gebastelt, damit die Schrauben beim Einspannen das Aluminium nicht verkratzen. Die maximale Breite des Werkstücks wird durch den Rahmen seitlich auf ca. 30cm beschränkt, nach vorne und hinten ist die Maschine offen und hat in der Tiefe einen Arbeitsbereich von ca. 18cm. Die maximale Höhe liegt bei etwa 5cm, höher kann die Spindel nicht angehoben werden. Für Namensschilder, kleine Formteile und natürlich PCBs ist das meist mehr als ausreichend. Für den Betrieb empfehle ich ein dauerhaft verbundenes Notebook, da man damit die beste Kontrolle und eine Vorschau hat. Mit dem mitgelieferten Controller kann man die Maschine zwar auch bewegen und GCode senden, durch das fehlende Feedback sind die Möglichkeiten dann aber eingeschränkt. Die Endstopps halten die Maschine bei Betätigung sofort an, dadurch wird verhindert dass man eine der Achsen zu weit bewegt und damit möglicherweise die Mechanik beschädigt. Auch ein Homing ist dadurch möglich, wobei man gerade bei dickeren Werkstücken aufpassen muss, dass der Fräser nicht an den Halterungen hängen bleibt. Auch der Not-Aus-Schalter ist ein praktisches Feature, weil man damit die Maschine vor einer Kollision oder bei einem abgerissenen Fräser sofort anhalten kann und Schäden vermeidet. Insgesamt eine sehr vielseitige kleine CNC-Fräse, auch gut für Einsteiger geeignet, für gute Ergebnisse muss man sich allerdings vertiefend mit CAM-Software auseinandersetzen und braucht in der Regel mehrere Versuche.

My First CNC machine. It seems very well built and went together easily. A few of the pre assembled parts had loose screws which were easy to fix. Still a learning curve with software choices etc. Probably can't say which software here. But the one that's commonly recommended works well. Learned a lot from on line forums in regard to setting up and first cuts. I had purchased a selection of bits and cutters at time of purchase. So no delays in trying things. I also upgraded to the 20000 RPM spindle from day one. Seems smooth and not too noisy, although first use was only at 12000 RPM. Looking forward to more projects.