G8P-1A4P-12VDC Fully-Sealed PCB Relay 30A 250VAC for PC Board or Panel-Mounted

Received a 2 pack. Build quality from the outside appears good. One of the relays has 5 prongs, the other 4. Believe they're electrically identical. I used the 4 prong relay to replace a burnt out relay in my dryer (see title for model). Worked, and still working a month later. You WILL need soldering skills for this replacement. Watch a few youtube videos. Tips from one newbie to another on soldering / desoldering : - If you don't already have a decent soldering station, plunk down the money and get one ~$40. You're saving a packet with this anyway, so invest some of the savings in a good soldering station. Make sure to get flux, a desoldering pump. And solder tin ! Wait till it arrives. In the meantime admire your new relay :-) Desoldering, removing the damaged relay: - If its your first time, fish up some damaged electronics and practice desoldering and soldering on THAT. You dont want to damage your controller board - that's $300. - The toughest part of this project IS de-soldering and removing the old relay. First timers, best done with 2 people - one pulling on the relay from one side, the other doing the desoldering. If the other person is the significant-other, be polite and STAY CALM, or you'll have much bigger problems than a non-functioning dryer. - You'll first need to scrape off the varnish at the terminal so your iron can get to the tin to desolder. I tried with a Dremel and almost damaged the board. Use a knife, dremel, whatever. Just be REALLY CAREFUL to not let your 'scraper' run off to other parts of the board. If you do bare some other part of the circuit, use NailPolish (yes) to re-coat. This is a high current circuit, and likely high humidity and you dont want the copper exposed - it will corrode. - There's a natural tendency to keep the iron on the terminal till you can pry the old relay loose. DONT. Do not heat the terminal for more than a few seconds, or you'll fry other components. Give the board enough time to cool off between attempts. - If you have a wick or suction-bulb to suck up the tin as you desolder, do that first. - You may need a few iterations through each terminal to desolder and pry loose a bit, rather than try to release one terminal at a time completely. Do what works for you, just dont hold the iron to a terminal for too long. Soldering: - after de-soldering this is a breeze. Not much advice here other than not to keep the iron on too long. - Nail polish to cover the tin once you're done. Installation and testing: - dont tempt Murphy by installing and closing up everything before you check it works. Connect the wires to the board, make sure the bottom of the board is elecrtically insulated and place it somewhere stable on the dryer. Make sure its NOT sitting ON the drum where it'll spin off if things work !! Good luck !

Relay came well packaged and the contact points covered by foam. Well protected. Contact points all fit the circuit board lining up perfectly. Took longer to disconnect the wires from the circuit board than it did to solder the relay back on. This was a very easy and cost effective fix for my dryer. Dryer is approx 11 years old now. I've replaced the heating element (from a part here on Amazon as well) and now this. Less than a 20 dollar fix whereas a repair person and a new circuit board would be well over 300 dollars. Half the cost of a new dryer. It's been a full week now and no issues. If I get 6 months to a year on this dryer, I will be very happy. Thanks Amazon for stocking this part.

Like everyone else, used this to complete a computer board repair on my Whirlpool duet dryer. Never successfully completed a board repair before this, but it was very easy to solder in. Saved $800 on a new dryer. I highly recommend getting a "solder sucker" or some other desoldering tool here on Amazon too. Not sure if you can complete the repair without it. The hardest part is just getting the old relay out by melting the existing solder and removing in the brief moment it is liquid. With the right tools, this took 5 mins.

I had a repairman come out and diagnose my clothes dryer. Everything was good except for this small, relatively inexpensive relay on the control board. The board was no longer available, and the repairman could not change the relay. So, I purchased the relay and got my younger brother, a qualified electrician for circuitry, to solder the relay to the board. Problem solved! Repairs and parts, through an appliance repairman... unavailable. I believed I would have to buy a new dryer, but with a talented brother and a relay the dryer is operable.

It fix the problem and now up and runner. Perfect fit.

Fixed my dryer after local parts stores told me this was a discontinued part and dryer could not be fixed! Quick ship so I am very happy!

This part number does not have the -ACD at the end of it, but Omron relays part numbering scheme does not have anything after the middle group of characters (in most cases). Just make sure the voltage matches, and the first 2 groups of characters match. I spent an hour trying to find the cause (I took the whole dryer apart, tested the fuse and thermistor - both were OK. But it was worth it, as I found a lot of lint in the venting system between the lint screen, and the blower- probably saved a fire in the future. NOTE TO SELF: check dryer at least 1 a year.) I then looked at the main circuit board, and found a brown spot, at one of the terminals for the relay. I desoldered the old relay (Get help if you don't know how to desolder, I have a HAKKO desoldering gun) and it took me about a minute to get the relay off. I cleaned up the pad, and scrapped a little of that green coating off, put flux on everything, and soldered it back in. Put the board back in the dryer, and tried it... My F-01 was gone, and the drum was turning. I will update this if I have any problems.

I had the F01 error on my Maytag dryer. I watched a YouTube video that recommended replacing this relay switch on the main circuit board. Sure enough, after I took the circuit board out, I could see the relay switch had a burnt connection. I believe the YouTube video is correct. Do not just re-solder the old relay. It needs to be replaced. After I replaced the relay, the dryer worked like new!