Inkbird PID Temperature Controller Kit, High Voltage 100ACV to 240ACV, Comes with SSR 40DA Solid State Relay, K Type Thermocouple, and White Heat Sink

Finally, an inexpensive controller that functions as described. PID loop is a true PID controller, not just some pretend imitation. I programmed it to maintain .01 degree accuracy...and it was spot on. There are a few variants of this units by other vendors that I have purchased - some don't control worth a hoot, others will only display C not F, and finally, with 3 PHD's I could not program the other units...This one, was a piece of cake to program! Easy to use, thank you. The instructions were well thought out and large enough in print to read, unlike some other brands that are hidden and so small a microscope is needed to read them...

I recently bought the Inkbird PID Temperature Controller Kit, and it’s been great! It’s super easy to set up and works exactly as promised. The controls are simple to use, and the temperature stays steady, which is perfect for my project. I’ve used it for a few weeks now, and it’s been reliable and accurate. It’s a great value for the price and has definitely made my work easier. I’d definitely recommend it to anyone who needs a solid temperature controller! I recently bought a 2nd for other projects.

I used this to control a hot plate made from ¾ inch thick aluminum plate and cartridge heaters. I used the auto-tune feature to get started, then tweaked the Ctl and PID settings until I was able to achieve a variation of only plus or minus 0.5 degrees C from the set point, at a steady state temperature. With all the thermal mass in the plate, it was necessary to switch off power to the heater cartridges at least 20 degrees below the set point on initial heat-up, to avoid too much temperature overshoot. I would then switch the heaters back on as it eased up to the set point. I like that you can store an offset to calibrate the K type sensor. Be sure to use a good thermal paste designed for computer cpu’s when mounting the SSR to the heat sink.

Works well. Instructions confusing. Also, the included probe is only good up to 400 degrees Celsius. For running a kiln, which is my use, it is not adequate. You will have to buy another probe. There is an excellent YouTube video on wiring this up. I highly recommend you watch it, probably more than once. I had no idea from the instructions how to do this. Also, the instructions say that the K-type probe is "faulty." This is incorrect; it DEFAULTS to the k-type probe in the settings. Seriously, watch the video. The title is "Wiring the INKBIRD ITC106 VH PID.

I purchased the inkbird for use in a homebuilt smoker. It was pretty easy to install and to use. It holds a consistent temperature. Excuse me, but I need to go spritz the ribs.

When I received this controller there was a piece of tape on the side that sad. "dad". I contacted support and they had no idea why. I did this because I wanted to have this info and I would let them know what happens. It took me a little time to build my unit. I checked my work and it did not work. I notified support. They sent me a diagram for me to check. I did so plus took a couple of pictured some volt/amp readings. They contacted me again and ask for info to send me a replacement at my request. They were very cooperative with my Problem. Recommend them highly. Roy

I should have bought this before I wasted the money on my other tempature control efforts. The wiring and programming are relatively easy (once you find a step by step youtube tutorial). I've been using it for a 1600W heating element and haven't had any problems with it.

Keeps settings if you just press SET after you finish programming. My apologies for not understanding that before leaving an unfair review. The unit itself worked for a couple months perfectly. Then it allowed my 30 Amp heater to overheat and damage my machine. Pulling it apart, the SSR was burnt. It was rated at 40 Amps, should not have been an issue. After installing a contactor/seperate voltage set up, the unit worked for about 2 days, then started flickering on and off, no matter the settings. I don't know if it was the failing SSR that damaged the controller, or if the controller itself was faulty, but I'm guessing the faulty SSR did the damage. I would use again on a smaller load, but never on a 30A or more load again where heat control is critical.

debo probarlo para ver si al menos funcionalmente es bueno