BCQLI 100 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper

This stuff is super finicky. After the first print jammed, I carefully fed the paper into the printer. One success. Tried again. Jam. Again. Jam. After several jams, I tested the printer on regular paper. Printer prints fine. Try again with the transfer paper. Jam. Only, this time, the jam is so bad the printer rollers can no longer roll. The paper is so bunched up it is completely stuck, and the printer starts smoking. I disassembled the printer to see what I can do. Can't get the paper unstuck, can't get the rollers to move. This stuff was cheap, and we can't get press-n-peel blue in Canada, it seems. Not worth it.

This worked for my first time trying the toner process. On 0.2mm sized traces no less. I printed the copper trace in black on my led printer. On highest quality and paper type on heavyweight. My printer happens to have an envelope mode. It prints slow and the paper goes straight through the machine and falls off the back side. This avoids the 180° bend on the paper. I felt this would preserve the quality of the print best. I pre-heated the blank PCB with my flat iron for few seconds. Slapped the yellow paper on it. Pressed 30s with the iron. I finished by doing one slow smoothing pass, just on case. Then I dunk the board with the glued paper in cold water. After two minutes the paper peeled off easily. It worked at the first try! Of course I had forgotten to print mirrored image. I did few more tests and it worked every time. I am thinking it might be possible to do solder mask and silkscreen with this. The difficulty will be in the alignment of course. But you can always quickly wash with acetone and try again.

This paper works spectacularly well for toner transfer. The only downside is that it naturally wants to curl up and is hard to feed into the printer (thought the current batch I have is less problematic). If it is wanting to curls the edges on you, the best trick i have found is to fold the leading edge about 1/4". That helps it feed straight into the printer.

Good value and good performance. Do NOT start an image too close to the starting edge of the paper. It will stick to the fuser before the pickup rollers have a chance to grab the paper, and will cause a horrible jam. It is best to allow at least an inch of blank paper before the image starts. I use 170-degrees-C for 60 seconds. Put a thin silicone sheet between the heat press and the paper. Allow the PCB to come to room temperature by itself (don't use water) prior to gently removing the paper. I've printed lines down to 0.4mm wide. If there are any voids in the final image, you can use a fine-point black Sharpie to fill in those gaps. Use 2-3 layers. The indelible versions resist ferric chloride.

First off, if you're looking for a GOOD product, Press-N-Peel Blue is far superior. However, at 1/10th of the cost per sheet, this product is definitely serviceable. Here's some tips I found to make these sheets work: 1. Set your printer to thin sheets in the printer preferences, and only put one sheet at a time in the tray. This paper is very thin and slippery, and tends to jam and crinkle if ran as normal paper. And if multiple sheets are in the tray, my printer will tend to pull up multiple at once. 2. Turn the darkness up, and set your printer to fix toner adhesion. This product is basically just glossy paper, and if your printer tries to rush the job, the toner is more likely to stick to the drum than the paper. (If this happens, an easy way to fix it is to print a blank sheet of normal paper with a line down the middle. It'll pull any stuck toner off of your drum) 3. I find it helps not to overfill your page with toner. I'm doing small designs for pendant etching, and I am tiling them like a checker board on the page. 4. Store your paper on a flat surface with something heavy and flat on top of it, like a large book. The paper tends to want to curl upward over time, which can cause feed issues. Note: this advice is based on my personal experience with a Brother HL-2240 laser printer. Your printer may likely be different, and your results may vary.