

🔗 Unlock your Arduino’s full potential with USB Host Shield magic!
The LM YN USB Host Shield is a compact, lightweight expansion board designed to add USB host capabilities to multiple Arduino models including UNO, MEGA 2560, and 1280. It supports Google Android ADK for seamless mobile device integration and enables USB HUB functionality, allowing connection of multiple USB peripherals. Ideal for developers seeking to elevate their Arduino projects with versatile USB connectivity.
| ASIN | B0777DR3T6 |
| Item model number | 4352417068 |
| Manufacturer | LM YN |
| Product Dimensions | 5.3 x 5.3 x 2 cm; 22 g |
J**N
Its not working i need refund or exhancge
D**K
Does not work! Image shows power connections as soldered, but it does not come this way. You will have to solder the connections yourself and then you won't be able to return the item when it doesn't work. I had no luck getting this to work. Do yourself a favor and just buy the Arduino Due board with the USB input port (micro USB) built in.
M**N
I have a working keyboard project using the official Arduino USB host shield. That shield has been discontinued, I have to look into clones for another project. Apparently, not all clones work, based on user reviews on the internet. I can now confirm this shield works as a drop-in placement for the discontinued official one, at least in my keyboard project. The board is shorter and has less feature but it does use the same MAX3421E chip. The solder work is not as polished as the original and the pins are a bit bent. There is no marking on the pins, unlike the original. However it's also cheaper than the original. Overall I'm happy to finally find a clone that works.
R**L
Like another reviewer, my board seemed to not work. I ran "board_qc" in Arduino IDE and could see the board was functioning but could not get any USB device to work with it. For people who normally don't solder... this is what you need to do, assuming your problem is the same as mine. The problem is the board is giving BOTH 3.3V and 5V to the USB. You can easily verify this by looking at the board. See my picture "Before removing solder". See how both the 3.3V and the 5V have bulges of solder? To fix this, remove the solder from the 3.3V bridge, it will then look like a crack... it won't be "bridged" anymore. I used a soldering iron and solder sucker (cheap plastic thing with spring to suck the solder up). I also used a third hand to hold the board and magnifying glass with light. The area is pretty small. You could also use a wick to suck up the solder, I just don't have one. When you are done it should look like my "after removing solder" picture. I'm not an experienced solder-er so please don't judge. :) I hope this helps someone else, I was really bummed when trying to get my Bluetooth to work with my PS4 controller for 2 hours, double checking my program, running diagnostics... Please look at your board and verify this before you lose your mind. Good luck! Oh and it appears to be working fine now.
B**.
They now ship these with the cheaper/ older chip set that needs to be replaced. These won’t work with the XBOX 360 controller unless you do.
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