AS10017 Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor

Quite a while back my 5.3L started reporting a low signal on the front knock sensor. So I ordered two AC Delco sensors and a new harness since the consensus seemed to be buy AC Delco. Once I had all of that installed, I ran the truck and now it started reporting a low signal on both the front and rear knock sensor. I cleared the codes a few times but they always came back. What a waste of time and money and double the trouble codes. This time around I ordered two Delphi sensors and a relocation harness. When the sensors arrived I mounted them in a vise and first checked that the resistance was 100k. Next I set the meter for AC voltage and tapped the vise with a hammer. Both of the sensors registered an AC voltage change with the hammer tap test. It looks like these are actually good sensors. Rather than rip off the intake and go through all of that work I mounted one of these on each end of the engine using existing vacant bolt holes. Using the relocation cable I hooked them up to the engine wiring harness. A few test runs later and even a freeway run and no codes showing so far. Hopefully they will last a while!

It works perfect, no more knocking using a regular fuel ( 87 octane ) Now it making better mpg , is difficult to install but Worth the price , the truck was knocking but no code the old sensor wasn't producing the correct voltage signal to make the spark timing correct

I bought these because ACDelco sometimes sources products from Delphi and these were half the price of the ACDelco sensors. My 2002 Suburban had been getting these codes because of the known rust issues with the 2000-2006 design. Anyhow I bought two of these and a new ACDelco wire harness. I did the work of replacing them, codes kept appearing. I thought maybe I had installed them wrong (torque) because the resistance was perfect at 100.3 on the ohm meter and I got a voltage response when tapping. So I did the job again, made sure all rust was scrubbed out, a little dielectric grease, perfect tongue, ground continuity as expected, but the whole thing back together (not a quick job) and the codes came back! I tinkered with resistance on the wires, figured it had to be the wires or ECM, couldn’t possibly be these sensors. I battled this for 6 months (too late to return these) until I asked a neighbor with the same engine to let me check his wire resistance for the knock sensors… turned out mine had been perfect before I started trying to mess with them. Finally bought a pair of ACDelcos from a local dealer and did the job a third time. After pulling these out I compared them with the ACDelcos. The ACDelvos measured 99.8 resistance (perfect, nearly identical to these, but the voltage check with a tap was insanely different. The ACDelcos voltage was way more responsive to taps. Once I put it all back together with the ACDelcos, the codes vanished and haven’t come back in over 300 miles. I’m kicking myself that I trusted these Delphi units and so much money, labor, and frustration are down the drain.

Perfect replacement. Tested perfectly in range both in impedance and in voltage generated with a knock. Installed them in my 2002 Suburban and have had zero issues. Do make sure you test both the impedance and voltage before installing. It sucks to do the job twice. Speaking from experience...

Fixed my check engine light my previous ones were rusty and old and this was perfect and great price wise

I bought Dorman knock sensors kit and failed. Didn’t want to use them but parts store had no other option. I need it running that day and Of course had to pull the intake again a week later. Just installed these Delphi today seem to be working so far, no code yet. Tested for continuity and a/c volts, both read fine.

Used with relocation kit, 41" harness extension, worked great. Still get occasional CEL but mostly off (and no code, it's not just me clearing a code and calling it done).

Changing these is no picnic. So many wire connections and fuel lines to release. GM did not make it easy for the do it yourself people. It was hard enough removing the wire connectors to the injectors. The last engine I rebuilt was a 1972 Buick GSX in 1980. Nothing like the high tech engines now. Now that I did it once it should only take 2 hours to remove everything. It only took 1.5 hours to put the intake on ready to crank. While the intake was off, I changed 2 knock sensors and valley pan gasket. The rear knock sensor was broken, rusted and 1 inch of water. I vacuumed both sensor holes and removed the valley pan. So much crap fell on the engine from that rear sensor. Some I could vacuum and what was on top the cam, but some fell below the cam. I just had my oil changed but I drained it anyway. Some of that crap likely fell on the crank and will still get into the oil. If it makes it through the oil pump screen, the oil filter will get the rest. I changed the oil pressure sensor and camshaft position sensor, both behind the intake. When I cranked it, it ran rough. Online it claims you have to relearn the camshaft sensor. Now I have to bring it to a mechanic to do that. I'm 71 and don't have the desire to work on engines anymore.

الأصلية دامت في الخدمة مدة ٢١ عاماً وأما هذه دامت سنتين فقط !! الجودة في منتجات ديلفي تغيرت أصبحت سيئة جداً بعد ما كانت القطع الأصلية هي ديلفي لسيارات جنرال موتورز

After installing two new knocks sensors I checked the resistance and it was dead on 100 ohms, right in the middle of the specs. Seems like a very high quality product. Delphi is a major supplier to GM so why not buy direct from them instead of going through the expensive 'middle man'?

Se ven de buena calidad. La vez pasada compre originales AC Delco. Y me resultó código de falla a los 3 meses P0327 y P0332 ralenti inestable, exceso de consumo de combustible y baja de potencia. Opte por seguir bien los paso colocar silicon en las ranuras torque de 15lib/pie. Se colocaron el 14/04/25 en una GMC Sierra 5.3 2004 4×4 veremos que tal funcionan. Saludos...

Funciono correctamente.

good quality