T8 LED 4FT Type A+B Light Bulbs, 24W(65W Equivalent), 3000LM, 6000K Super Bright, Plug and Play or Ballast Bypass, 4 Foot LED Fluorescent Tube Replacement, ETL Listed, Dual-Ended, Clear(4-Pack)

A friend's old kitchen fluorescent T12 bulbs failed. I offered to install LED. I was having a hard time determining a color that would be acceptable. It has to the perfect color; otherwise I would have to switch it back to fluorescent. I came across these LED T8 lights that have a color adjustment. How cool - or warm - is that! Once installed, I let my friend select the color desired - a warm 3500K.I was worried about the brightness. The 24 Watt LED lights are brighter than the old 40 Watt florescent. My friend said that was okay - the light over the sink can now be left off most of the time. A win. (Maybe the manufacturer can add a brightness selector too? 18W or 24W?)My friend was worried about safety. I was also after reading reviews - not for this product - that indicate a fire risk with plug and play. Because of this, I did the bypass install. I would advise not using the plug and play option of using the existing ballast. The LED bulbs are designed to handle the 200-700 Volts from a ballast. However, I feel better with a by pass and feeding the LED bulbs with 120 Volts. If it can handle 700 Volts, I feel pretty good about 120 Volts. Also, do you trust your ballast? Are you willing to risk the LED bulb's ability to handle the spikes a crappy ballast might throw at it? (A good ballast will cost more than the LED lights.)The bypass wiring is easy. There are videos on YouTube that show how it's done. Be sure to watch the ones that match the wiring required. Basically, wire one end with neutral and the other with hot. (Not those that have both neutral and hot at one end.) All the wires from the ballast are disconnected. (I did not remove the ballast or cut and reuse it's wires. I pulled the ballast wires from the tombstones rather than cutting them just in case I had to back out. I bought 18 gauge wire for wiring each end.) Do make sure the tombstone wires are inserted properly. Also, watch a video about twist-on connectors if needed so that you don't use the wrong size or fail to twist the wires well enough. If you don't do it correctly the wires can come out - perhaps because of vibration due to AC current flow.Brighter for less power with a color adjustment is a big win. I can't address durability. It's like proving a positive. It's going to be a decade before I know if they last the rated number of hours. No failure yet with 49995 hours to go.

Our laundry room came equipped with a pair of standard 2-tube fluorescent tube fixtures. Over the years, I’ve tried different tube types with different color compositions, but the room remained a dungeon. Then last month a ballast failed on one of the fixtures. OK, time to try something new. I bought a 4 pack of these high output LED tubes and removed the ballasts from the fixtures. The modification was so easy, even I could do it. The results were stunning.Tube delivery took about a week and actually came a day earlier than promised. The 4 tubes came in a very strong box with fortified ends to protect tubes from damage. Amazon placed this rugged box in one of their boxes for delivery. The Amazon box was more decoration than protection since no packing material was added to keep the tube container from rattling around the Amazon box. Never the less, the tubes arrived with no damage.I retrofitted the fixtures in place. The procedure was quite simple once I got those pesky lens off the fixtures. After removing the old tubes, a simple squeeze on the fixture wire cover exposed the ballast and tombstone wiring. A quick voltmeter check verified that the power was off. Then it was simple matter of cutting the ballast wires and removing the one Philips head screw that holds the ballast in place.The dual end power feed: The existing 2 yellow wires from the shunted end tombstones were long enough to reach the white neutral wire location. The 3 wires were twisted together and a new wire nut was securely installed. The 2 tombstones on the other side of the fixture each contained 2 wires (blue wires from one, red wires from the other.). All 4 of these tombstone wires were then twisted together with the black “line” voltage wire that originally fed the ballast. Note that this 5 wire connection requires a larger size wire nut. The green ground wire remained as-is on the fixture grounding screw. That’s it. Then it was a simple matter of pushing the fixture wire cover back in place and inserting the tubes.It took maybe 20 minutes to retrofit the first fixture because I was deliberate with each step, verifying wire lengths, selecting correct wire nut sizes, etc. The second fixture took less than 15 minutes. Then came the moment of truth; let’s power up these bad boys. Yikes, the room is very bright.Short of premature tube failure, I can’t imagine a better LED conversion than using these super bright tubes.

Awesome lights, brighter than my old fluorescent lights. I went with a LED Type B installation. I got the adjustable color lights, and even on the warmest color setting, they're more bright white but that's okay. They work great.

This is a good product and because it is dual ended, it's fairly easy to install. These make an excellent upgrade for florescent tubes because they are so bright and have a clean, natural shade of white light. I downgraded it by one star simply because the customer support isn't as good as I was hoping. I think what's happened is that the price of these has gotten so low that they have essentially become a commodity. So, if you get one bad tube (can happen on any product) just be prepared to buy your own replacement.