phrozen 3D Printer Rapid Resin [Aqua Clear Plus], 405nm LCD UV-Curing Photopolymer Resin, Low Shrinkage, Transparent Visual, Low Odor, Non-Brittle, Easy to Print, Fast Printing (1KG)

Did that get your attention? Good! I wanted to try this resin since it claims to have 21% elongation, that sounds great for giving small fiddly bits some survivability. By comparison: -Aqua Gray 4K has 7% elongation, and while it's not amazingly durable it gets the job done. -Siraya's Tenacious Flex Resin claims 50% elongation. Frankly I'm not sure how elongation is measured, but I do know that diluting the Siraya 50/50 with standard resin still gives durable results, so maybe 21% will be alright too. Settings for this print were: [PHOTON MONO X] Power 80% (Default) Antialias 8 Gray/Blur 0 Layer Height 30um Lift Speed 80mm/min Retract Speed 200mm/min Bottom Layer Exp 30s (5 layers) Normal Layer Exp 0.8s That's not a typo, 0.8s per layer! It prints just as fast as Aqua Gray 4K. I can do 0.7s too, so depending on your setup maybe you can too. In my crude test, I simply bent the lekku shown (the "head tails") until they snapped, and the Aqua Green definitely bends more than the Aqua Gray 4K. Functionally, it doesn't matter what resin you use for a static object, like a head, but the added flex does come in handy when printing thinner things, like skinny weapons or armor for action figures, to prevent accidental cracks or breaks when fitting them to a figure. Considering this costs about the same as ABS-like resins, is roughly 6 to 3 times more flexible, prints way faster and is a lovely color, I'd recommend this over everything else for general purpose printing. That said, I sell resin prints for action figures (heads, pouches, weapons, that kind of thing) and customers prefer gray/black/white over everything else. They tend not to like bright colors like this because if paint ever scrapes off an item the bright green resin underneath is very noticeable.

this was the resint that started all, it was fast to print and cure and it had a lot of resistance too. It endures a lot after curing and it has a strong odor, if you have a sensitive nose beware because this resin needs to be cleaned wit IPA

I have a Phrozen Sonic Mini 8k and a Mighty 8k. I always have better luck dialing in phozen resin. I could print right away, but the learning curve was steep, and I could never get less expensive resin to work as well. With failed prints and wasted time, I figured out I really wasn’t saving money and the headache of cleaning up just wasn’t worth it. The Phrozen aqua was good and clear. I just wish it was discounted more often.

Vivid color and makes great prints. have gone through multiple bottles with no issue

This resin is great for dental models. Quick to print, clean, and reasonably priced. Clean up is easier with the lower viscosity of the resin.

Works as advertised. Extremely precise printing.

This product is very smooth and produces quality prints. It does however cure a little too easy with just the slightest of light.

This is specifically for the Misty Gray resin. I can confidently say that this is the worst 3d printer resin I have ever used. I've been 3d printing for years, and generally I'm a fan of phrozen 3d printing resin. Their aqua line is fine, and their fast black water washable resin is EXCELLENT. I own and mainly print on a phrozen mini 4k. All the resins require tuning, beyond the recommended specs on the phrozen website. I'm ok with that, because usually the resins print fine within a few tenths of a second from the recommended exposure time. I will admit, I bought this resin by mistake. I thought it was the aqua gray (which I've had good experiences with) on sale. But I realized before I started printing this was a different resin, and knew I had to recalibrate. I did, running multiple instances across a range of exposures (my normal strategy with a new resin). And it was ... Weird. The results were difficult to interpret. The middle of the recommended range by phrozen (2.5sec) was very underexposed. this continued to 2.7sec, but a 2.9 sec exposure seemed best, though slightly overexposed. After that, it has been just a nightmare. Nothing works. Supports break before they even form, supports weld to the minis like they are part of the model, constant problems with layer adhesion. If I drop my exposure by just .1 sec, the models rip off the supports. If I stay at 2.9 the supports are welded to the mini, but sometimes the supports just don't form all the way to the mini. I've gone through almost a whole bottle printing the same minis over and over, slightly tweaking supports and/or exposure and crossing my fingers each time. Just awful. Don't buy.

This good

Tiene un acabado más baboso que la resina gris estándar de anycubic, pero definitivamente te da una mayor fiabilidad de impresión al no ser tan quebradiza.