Bushwacker Jeep Flat Style Front & Rear Fender Flares | 4-Piece Set, Black, Textured Finish | 10918-07 | Fits 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited 4-Door

I bought these almost 3 years ago and kept putting off the installation because I was intimidated by it. Turns out I was right to be intimidated--it was a bear. But I got it done over the past 2 days, and they look great. They look like I would imagine flat fenders from Mopar looking if you could get them from the factory, and very solid. Be sure to watch YouTube videos to get tips and get better guidance than the printed instructions. Also, be sure to cut/grind off all of the "burs" left over from the manufacturing process, not just the ones the instructions say to remove. I could install the full set in one day now that I've done it once and learned from my mistakes. I had to install the front passenger flare twice because I failed to clean up the burs the first time. And lining up the screw holes on the rear flares was a huge pain, but I developed a system by the time I was finished.

Incredible product. And it adds such a different look to the JKU! I bought these for my 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, and let me tell you: I'm nothing short of pleased. It added a good three inches of tire clearance from the factory fenders and it really opened up the wells for articulation! The plastic they're made out of is of high quality material that will last for a LONG time. I've got my JKU dressed with all of their Jeep products. From their corner guards, to their hood scoop, to their fender flares, and they've yet to disappoint. Keep in mind, however, that this is a project you want to save for a weekend. You wont finish it in one night. It took quite a few hours to do this right with just me doing it. Everything i've done to my Jeep, i've done myself, and this was the project that took the longest. You have to do some very careful cutting of the splash guards as well as reuse some of the original parts, so be prepared for that. Also, you will do very minor electrical work for the lights on the flares, so make sure you have a wire stripper handy. The parts for the install are one for one, so make sure you keep them somewhere where you wont knock them around and lose a piece, as you only get one for each particular purpose. All in all, I definitely recommend this product. It's a high quality, skillfully crafted product that comes from a great company, at a great price. Just to add-- I'm in Alaska. So for me to get these flares at this price($100 off from a local seller) is a great deal.

These replace a set of Xenon narrow flares that were awful. (See my review.) Ordered the Bushwackers rather than metal flares to keep weight down on the rig, which is pretty well built up. Shipment arrived very quickly and I set to work removing the Xenons. They required Rivnuts in back, which proved to be no issue when installing the Bushwackers, but took a bit of extra time later. Much time was saved because I'd already trimmed the wheell house liners. Both brands essentially have you cut them the same. With the Xenons off I followed Bushwacker's detailed instructions and soon had the front inner pieces on, the turn signal wiring adapted (already cut and wired for the Xenons) and started fitting the flares. Both sides seemed to line up OK so I prepped the paint with the little alcohol wipes they give you and started the install of the driver side front by plugging in the turn signal wires. (Turn signals provided are superb LEDs. Xenon gives you crap.) A bit of patence required to get the screw holes & speed nuts lined up but with that accomlished I installed the screws, then carefully peeled back the mounting tape and pressed the flare to the front fender. All seemed great, moved to the passenger side and followed the same procedure. Here we had a really bad time of it. Holes would not line up with the speed nuts. Removed the flare a couple times and adjusted the mounting pieces, but that was no help. Finally I had to enlarge some of the holes in the flare to get the screws in. Finished it up with the tape seating and again all looked fine. I seated the tape on both sides using the slick little tool they supply and I moved to the rears. The rear inner pieces would normally just be installed with Bushwacker's supplied push pins, but because of the prior installation I used bolts & the Rivnuts and all went just fine. Both rears went onn fairly easily and the job was done. The rig looked great, the Bushwackers have a very high quality, textured factory type appearance. Everyone loved the way thay looked and we headed for Moab Easter Jeep Safari. Then an issue popped up I hadn't expected. After the first trail run I ran the JK through an automated car wash. Next morning I noticed both front flares had pulled loose from the fenders in spots around the upper edge. The mounting tape had not held up to the water and dryer fan pressures of the car wash. Fortunately Bushwacker had a booth at the EJS vendor show and I spoke with their Sales & Marketing VP. He had me contact their customer center, who quickly sent out some fresh tape. When I have time I'll pull the fronts off and re-install with the new tape & see how it goes. The next issue I have is rub. I run MTR/K 37s on the rig, with a Teraflex 4" long arm suspension. At full rear stuff the tires hit the front inner edge of the flare where it meets the wheelhouse liner (at the front pinch seam) and the rear where I'd trimmed back the body seam. I'm going to have to trim them back a bit or the tires are going to tear the flare off in those areas. That aside they look great and should survive a substantial hit. Of the plastic JK flares out there these are clearly tops. As for the Xenons, hey, read my review!

So we FINALLY have beautiful weather for me to install these beauties. Bushwacker is a popular, well established company and my Jeep club purchases many items from them that's why I went with these, not only for look but quality. Anyways I prepped my Jeep for install, took off stock fenders, followed instructions in book and you tube, went to get driver brackets to put along fender and I don't have D2 part. So I look again and noticed I had two P2s and two D9s (for rear) There is NO WAY I could install the fenders (front OR rear) without these parts. My entire gorgeous day was wasted and on top of that I can't put my inner fenders on till I put outer on first, which I realized after I installed inner fender. CHECK PARTS FIRST!!!!. SO FRUSTRATING! Packaging error on the Bushwacker side bc the inner box says it was shipped to Amazon. I need to return and I hope Amazon or Bushwacker will work with me.

Finally got the nerve to install these. Very secure once installed and love the look. Took me twice as long as they say it should but I took my time and watched an install video on by Auto Customs on youtube as I went along. A couple hints: When cutting the wheel well liners cut them a little large. On the first one I cut it exactly along the line where it meets the side and it was just long enough. On the subsequent cuts I cut it about 1/2" long and it fit perfectly. The hardest part for me was putting the final screws in along the bottom that hols the flair to the bolted on holders. That is truly a PITA but with time and patience and a scribe it is doable. Just have to search around for the hole with the pick then the screw. Don't tighten any until they are all in (standard stuff). The light wiring on mine was white to black. I highly recommend the clip removal tools in that video, really makes it a lot simpler.

I found the installation to be a little difficult. I had read it takes 4-8 hours to install, so I gave myself a weekend to do it. It took me 7 hours to install the drivers side front, so I made it into a two weekend project. The other three took 4-5 hours each to install. Most people should finish faster, though. I kept running upstairs to watch the installation videos because I can't get a phone signal in my garage. The instructions were mostly adequate, but there are a couple of youtube videos that help out a lot. Make sure you have all of the recommended tools and then some, and make sure all the parts are there before you begin. You will also want to make sure your sockets fit your socket wrenches and extensions, as you may need adapters. Cutting the splash shield is probably the hardest part. I found sheet metal shears and a utility knife to be helpful. I also used an angle grinder with a cutting disk, but I think a small jigsaw would have been better. The edge trim goes on easier if you use an awl to open up the gap, and if you slide the trim on before you remove the tape. Removing the clips worked well with upholstery pliers and a mini pry bar. Drilling the plastic rivets in step 8 was really hard because the drill would just spin on the plastic and not go through. I found using the mini pry bar and some cutting pliers worked a lot better. Step 12 is very crucial. Leave a lot of extra material, then trim it after step 43. The splash shield is very wobbly and you won't know if it fits until you push the flare all the way in. I cut a little too much off one shield, and I had to drill a couple of holes in the shield and screw in another strip of plastic to cover the gap (between step 44 and 45) The speed clips in step 16 go on easy if you stick a flat head screwdriver in them to open them up. The threaded portion is the side that is not flat. It helps to color the areas around the hole with different colored china markers so you know the position of the clip after you put the flare on, since you won't be able to see much of the clip. Make sure you use the crescent end of the wrench in step 18, or your wrench will get stuck. Be very careful not to push in the plungers on the retainer clips in step 27 until they are all installed, and push the clips through the plastic pieces before you mount them as you may have to open up the holes a little. Do steps 32-35 before 28, it is a lot easier to do the crimping and heat shrinking when the wires are disconnected. You can probably use electrical tape if you don't have any shrink tubing. Make sure you slide on the shrink tubing on before you crimp the wires. The crimping is easy, you just have to make sure the wires are in contact with the metal part inside the wire connector. You don't need to disconnect the battery or anything. You will probably have to trim the plastic wire cover, too. I think the wires are 14 AWG. It also doesn't hurt to mark the white wire with white electrical tape or shrink tubing since it will be covered. The white wire plugs into the black wire and vice versa. Turn on the headlights to check it. Funny, I had always assumed these were turn signals, but they are side marker lights (see youtube if you want to convert them). You will definitely need a 8" socket extension for step 37. The nut should be flush with the outside of the socket, so don't use a deep socket. I don't like this part of the design because there is no way to replace the light without removing the flare. In step 41, you will want to tape the red liner to the outside of the flare to hold it in place. In steps 44-45, you really have to shove the flares tight against the Jeep in order to find the clips. I had to stick the awl in the hole to hold it in place while I picked up the screw. Put one screw in, tighten it halfway, then work your way around. I had one flare that was really warped, so it can be difficult. You will need a lot of strength to push it in firmly. I also had to tear open the screw holes in the flares a little bit with the awl. Make sure you don't pull the tape in step 47 too fast, it could break. I needed to use the pry bar and cutting pliers in step 53 since the upholstery pliers didn't fit very well. You might want to use something else to hold the splash shield in place in step 58 because the retainers will get damaged when you pull them out. Once I finished, I was really happy with the look. I would have preferred a design with a pre-cut splash shield, replaceable lights, and one that lined up the holes better so you don't need physical strength to have the flares flush with the Jeep.

Put these on a 2008 Jeep Wrangler sahara Unlimited. Look great! Nice fit and nice upgrade to the fenders. came with a lot of pieces for mounting. Ended up not doing it myself and having my mechanic install. There were very detailed instructions so if you had the time to do it could be a do it yourself project. Took mechanic couple hours to install. Highly recommend these and Amazon had a very competitive price at the time of my purchase.

I customised my stock 2011 Jeep JKU with a Rancho 3.5" lift, 18" KMC off-road wheels, and 35"s. I put these on for the look and clearance. The fit nicely, but the weather stripping makes it near impossible to install. The adhesive never fully takes and allows the strip to pop off when applying the fender onto the mounts. So, my front fenders have the weather stripping and my rears do not. I could care less because they fit perfectly and look great.