---
product_id: 378861570
title: "Rectorseal 97637 Safe-T-Switch Ss2"
brand: "rectorseal"
price: "$U2281"
currency: UYU
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 5
category: "Rectorseal"
url: https://www.desertcart.uy/products/378861570-rectorseal-97637-safe-t-switch-ss2
store_origin: UY
region: Uruguay
---

# 125 Amp switching capacity Water-sealed reed/magnet switch Schedule 40 PVC1 plastic components Rectorseal 97637 Safe-T-Switch Ss2

**Brand:** rectorseal
**Price:** $U2281
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 💡 Stay cool, stay safe — never let a clog catch you off guard!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Rectorseal 97637 Safe-T-Switch Ss2 by rectorseal
- **How much does it cost?** $U2281 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.uy](https://www.desertcart.uy/products/378861570-rectorseal-97637-safe-t-switch-ss2)

## Best For

- rectorseal enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted rectorseal brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Maintenance-Friendly:** Detachable float assembly allows easy cleaning without disturbing existing plumbing.
- • **Pre-Wired Convenience:** Comes with 4-foot 18 AWG wires for quick, hassle-free setup.
- • **Compact L-Shaped Design:** Fits effortlessly in tight spaces for seamless installation.
- • **High Electrical Capacity:** Handles up to 125 Amps switching and 25 Amps carry capacity for robust safety control.
- • **Patented Water-Sealed Switch:** Ensures reliable, corrosion-resistant performance under moisture exposure.

## Overview

The Rectorseal 97637 Safe-T-Switch SS2 is a patented, water-sealed reed/magnet switch designed for HVAC condensate safety. Its compact L-shaped form fits tight spaces and installs easily on auxiliary pan outlets without plugs. Rated for 125 Amp switching and 25 Amp carry capacity, it features durable Schedule 40 PVC1 components and comes pre-wired with 4-foot 18 AWG wires. This switch prevents costly compressor damage by shutting off the unit when condensate drains clog, making it an essential safeguard for modern air handlers and evaporator coils.

## Description

Safe-T-Switch SS2 is a smaller, L-Shaped switch installs on auxiliary pan outlets and requires no plug. Installs easily in tight spaces and catches clogs in primary pan outlet nipples. Pre-wired with 4-foot 18 AWG wires. (24-Piece).

Review: This is a typical safety switch and is used to shut off an A/C unit when the evaporator condensate drain is clogged. The Rectorseal brand is a common brand. It is usually installed on the secondary drain port on the indoor evaporator coil or the air handler. It has a float that opens a switch so you wire it in series to the yellow thermostat wire (24 volt wire) to shut off the outdoor compressor if it senses the evaporator pan is overflowing. I like to pressure fit the PVC connection so you can remove it from the coil instead of glueing it in place. The pipe size is 3/4". I would use a different type float switch (clamp-on type) on the emergency drain pan under the furnace or air handler. I think it is better used close to the evaporator because a condensate leak will leak through a furnace and ruin a main circuit board or even a blower motor before a lower emergency pan float switch shuts off the air conditioner. Remember it is for 24 volt circuits. Install it "inline" or in series on the thermostat wire that energizes the compressor- usually the yellow"Y" wire. This means the blower (G(reen))wire will still run. Make sure you install it level with the evaporator on the secondary drain port which is slightly HIGHER then the main drain port on a evaporator which should already have a white PVC pipe connected. Do not disable this safety- fix the clogged pipe - use a wet vacuum on the condensate drain pipe outside that usually works. You can also cut the drainline near the indoor coil and use pressurized nitrogen to blow out a clog then use a 3/4" PVC coupling to reconnect the drainline. Make sure to clear the pipe going into the coil as well. All air handlers should have a PVC ptrap on the drain pipe this keeps the blower from drawing air in through that drainline and possibly keeping the drain from draining. On a regular gas furnace the indoor coil is on the "positive" side of the blower so it doesn't need the p-trap -(it blows a little air outward through that drainline). Sometimes the secondary drain port on the evaporator has a plug or a plastic knockout I carefully use a drill bit to drill through the knockout without damaging the threads. This threaded connection just needs to be hand tightened plus maybe a 1/2 turn don't overtight these drain connections on the coil as the pan is usually plastic and can crack. Use tfe paste or teflon tape on the threads. You should be able to lift the float assembly out of the elbow to clean it when needed. The quality of this product is good and it is a simple product. You can easily test it like any switch using a volt meter while the outdoor compressor is running it should have 24 volts between either of the wire leads to ground. With the switch open (overflow position) one lead would read 24 volts and the other lead 0 volts to ground- that is while thermostat is "calling for" the compressor to run. Some service techs install this on the 24 volt red wire which will switch off all the 24 volts to the thermostat just have to trace the 24 volt wiring to know. A furnace or airhandler in an attic should always have a emergency drain pan under it on the floor and that pan should always stay dry except if there is a problem. Shut off the unit if that emergency pan has water in it until the leak is fixed. This switch is used mostly if the unit is in a closet or in the garage or basement and can be used along with the emergency pan. Almost all Air conditioner drains clog up eventually. A heat pump doesn't produce condensate in the indoor section in the heating (winter) mode just in the A/C (summer) mode.
Review: What I like is the part that had the floater is not glue to the part that need to connect to the drain water pan. This allow me to take it apart and to connect it without interfering with my existing pipes nearby (also good when taking out later for cleaning) Tested and it works as intended.

## Features

- Patented, water sealed reed/magnet switch design
- UL 508 Compliant
- Schedule 40 PVC1 plastic components
- 25 Amp Carry capacity
- 125 Amp Swtiching Capacity

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B005D4RFEM |
| Best Sellers Rank | #193,306 in Tools & Home Improvement ( See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement ) #362 in Safe Accessories |
| Item model number | 97637 |
| Manufacturer | The Rectorseal Corporation |
| Product Dimensions | 5.08 x 13.97 x 20.96 cm; 208.65 g |

## Product Details

- **Connector type:** Plug In
- **Contact type:** Normally Closed
- **Current rating:** 25 Amps
- **Operating voltage:** 110 Volts
- **Operation mode:** ON-ON

## Images

![Rectorseal 97637 Safe-T-Switch Ss2 - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41mRBpnQU9L.jpg)
![Rectorseal 97637 Safe-T-Switch Ss2 - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51DnC1pw9-L.jpg)
![Rectorseal 97637 Safe-T-Switch Ss2 - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51ULSY6xLdL.jpg)
![Rectorseal 97637 Safe-T-Switch Ss2 - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51p4fZU71mL.jpg)
![Rectorseal 97637 Safe-T-Switch Ss2 - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81JUOl-ttkL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: on  the ss2 safety switch does it have a normally open contact or is it normally closed?**
A: The switch is normally closed. When water raises the float this opens the connection. These float switches go bad every so often. In the case where the switch has gone bad and you are sure you do not have condensate clog in your line, you can cut the wire at the top of switch and twist together the wire to the unit and cover with a wire nut. You are going to have the switch replaced anyway, so you might as well enjoy your A/C without paying for an emergency visit from your local HVAC professional. Do this only if you are 100% sure you do not have a clogged line. I take no responsibility if your line is clogged and you suffer water damage.

**Q: Can this be put into a secondary drain pan that sits under the ac?**
A: I don't see why not.  Just make sure you have the wiring set up correctly to shut down the unit.  I assume there is another switch in the primary drain pan.

**Q: Can the float level be adjusted, by rotating the float shaft on a thread(?), or ?**
A: No, I don't believe it is adjustable.  Since it is designed as a type of safety switch (to turn off AC unit) there isn't a need to adjust.

**Q: What is the inside diameter of the pipe that the switch slides into? Does the switch use a float?**
A: 3/4 inch id. switch does use a float

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Review
*by D***G on 30 October 2022*

This is a typical safety switch and is used to shut off an A/C unit when the evaporator condensate drain is clogged. The Rectorseal brand is a common brand. It is usually installed on the secondary drain port on the indoor evaporator coil or the air handler. It has a float that opens a switch so you wire it in series to the yellow thermostat wire (24 volt wire) to shut off the outdoor compressor if it senses the evaporator pan is overflowing. I like to pressure fit the PVC connection so you can remove it from the coil instead of glueing it in place. The pipe size is 3/4". I would use a different type float switch (clamp-on type) on the emergency drain pan under the furnace or air handler. I think it is better used close to the evaporator because a condensate leak will leak through a furnace and ruin a main circuit board or even a blower motor before a lower emergency pan float switch shuts off the air conditioner. Remember it is for 24 volt circuits. Install it "inline" or in series on the thermostat wire that energizes the compressor- usually the yellow"Y" wire. This means the blower (G(reen))wire will still run. Make sure you install it level with the evaporator on the secondary drain port which is slightly HIGHER then the main drain port on a evaporator which should already have a white PVC pipe connected. Do not disable this safety- fix the clogged pipe - use a wet vacuum on the condensate drain pipe outside that usually works. You can also cut the drainline near the indoor coil and use pressurized nitrogen to blow out a clog then use a 3/4" PVC coupling to reconnect the drainline. Make sure to clear the pipe going into the coil as well. All air handlers should have a PVC ptrap on the drain pipe this keeps the blower from drawing air in through that drainline and possibly keeping the drain from draining. On a regular gas furnace the indoor coil is on the "positive" side of the blower so it doesn't need the p-trap -(it blows a little air outward through that drainline). Sometimes the secondary drain port on the evaporator has a plug or a plastic knockout I carefully use a drill bit to drill through the knockout without damaging the threads. This threaded connection just needs to be hand tightened plus maybe a 1/2 turn don't overtight these drain connections on the coil as the pan is usually plastic and can crack. Use tfe paste or teflon tape on the threads. You should be able to lift the float assembly out of the elbow to clean it when needed. The quality of this product is good and it is a simple product. You can easily test it like any switch using a volt meter while the outdoor compressor is running it should have 24 volts between either of the wire leads to ground. With the switch open (overflow position) one lead would read 24 volts and the other lead 0 volts to ground- that is while thermostat is "calling for" the compressor to run. Some service techs install this on the 24 volt red wire which will switch off all the 24 volts to the thermostat just have to trace the 24 volt wiring to know. A furnace or airhandler in an attic should always have a emergency drain pan under it on the floor and that pan should always stay dry except if there is a problem. Shut off the unit if that emergency pan has water in it until the leak is fixed. This switch is used mostly if the unit is in a closet or in the garage or basement and can be used along with the emergency pan. Almost all Air conditioner drains clog up eventually. A heat pump doesn't produce condensate in the indoor section in the heating (winter) mode just in the A/C (summer) mode.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Review
*by V***C on 17 September 2021*

What I like is the part that had the floater is not glue to the part that need to connect to the drain water pan. This allow me to take it apart and to connect it without interfering with my existing pipes nearby (also good when taking out later for cleaning) Tested and it works as intended.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Review
*by B***K on 13 February 2023*

Got this float switch to cut of the air conditioning if the condensate plugs up. Simple installation and installed it on the HVAC evaporator secondary drain.

## Frequently Bought Together

- Rectorseal 97637 Safe-T-Switch Ss2
- Rectorseal 97647 Safe-T-Switch Ss3
- Rectorseal 97632 Safe-T-Switch Ss1,Black/ White

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*Product available on Desertcart Uruguay*
*Store origin: UY*
*Last updated: 2026-02-25*