Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Resin 3 Gallons Kit, 2-4 Inch Clear Casting Resin for River Tables, Live Edge Wood, Large Molds, Food Safe, Zero VOC, Bubble Free

Let me start off by saying this was to make an XMAS present for the wife. To say the least I didn't leave myself enough time and had to rush things. But I bought this product specifically due to its claim that it handles 2-4" pours. As you can see by the image, this was a tricky pour. I was trying to encapsulate a 3-dimensional object, that to say the least had mass and buoyancy which made it tricky. It wasn't wasn't something I could really do in multiple pours very well because of it's shape. Technically I think I probably could have done it in two pours, but I didn't have time. So I watched tons if videos, read the directions dozens of times, and tried to do my best. I've never done an epoxy mold, let alone one that had all the tricks this one had. it's not visible in the picture but there's actually a piece of all thread going through the bottom of the mold to secure the project to the walnut base. That alone was difficult. I started by creating a mold, I used melamine laminated particle board, partially because it's easy to cut, secure, and provides a pretty consistent surface when done properly. I had also hoped that because melamine is fairly non-porous, that it would help prevent the epoxy from sticking. I silicon caulked all seams and the all thread that was drilled through the side, into the base. The lit tree inside was zip tied to the all thread, and there was a piece of wood across the open top of the mold that I fed the wiring through, to hold it in place and securely. I also bought a pretty expensive epoxy release spray on Amazon that I covered the inside of the mold with, hoping it would help remove the wood when the product was cured. Most of this prep work was worth it, but I will say I don't think the release agent did any good. Based on the directions, I spent a lot of time creating the right environment for the cure. I hung plastic in my utility room and worked hard to effectively create a "paint booth" in an effort to be able to control the ambient temps. Where I am, the combustion air coming into my utility room was between 20F and 45F during the cure, so I put a space heater in the paint booth. There's no where else in the house I could have done this (especially since it was a gift and wife couldn't see it), and my garage often dips below freezing every night in the winter. On pour day, I heated the bottles using a heating pad and electric blanket, I mixed no more than 1G at a time, and followed the directions for length of mix, moving between buckets, etc. In general, the pour went pretty well. But almost immediately, some started leaking out of the hole for the all thread, even with caulk, so I'm guess it moved enough that it cracked the caulk. I scrambled to fix that with more caulk and even some good ol flex seal. This is where things went haywire for me. I paid so much attention to keeping the space between 72F and 75F, that I didn't pay attention to really the most critical thing, which wasn't really heating the product, but dissipating the heat from the reaction. I should have known, and I think the directions lacked some emphasis on heat during a deep pour. My pour was 3.5" deep. The heat it generated overnight was so much, that it cracked, created several crevices. So the next morning, when I found these, of course I kind of panicked, but I decided to work with it. I cleaned all of the surfaces as much as possible, did some light sanding, and used alcohol to clean it. I also vacuumed the cracks. I then mixed more epoxy, and started to fill the cracks and crevices. And boom, more issues. It turned out the expansion/contraction broke the caulk seals in the mold. So now it started leaking out a bunch. So I scrambled with more flex seal and caulk, trying to seal it up enough to contain the second pour. Surprisingly the second and third pours turned out fine. the product matched fine, of course you can still see them but they actually add a lot of character to the finished product. Structurally I think it's fine as well. I gave it 72hours before touching the mold, and then started to break it apart. This is where I don't think the mold release stuff did anything, the melamine was stuck to he epoxy like mad. I basically had to chisel, scrap, and sand the heck out of thing to get that off. Which basically meant I had to resurface the whole thing. That process was miserable, I used everything from a 40grit floor sander, to an orbital sander, to a dremel, and oscillating tool, with sand papers from 40 grit to 1000 grit. I used automotive rubbing compound and polish, as well as a buffing wheel. The surface still isn't very "polished" but it looks pretty good. In summary, my lessons learned were: - this can definitely be done by a novice. But it's not "easy" - for deep pours, heat control is in my opinion more important than keeping it warm - don't trust the "release agents" - when doing a mold that has an open top, remember to plan for that to be the finished side, it was much more polished and natural than the sides that were enclosed in the mold - Not really sure what else to have used for a mold, I though the melamine laminated wood was a great idea. I couldn't very well have used a silicon mold or something for a project this custom - polishing is hard work. I even tried to use diamond abrasives I use on tile and glass, didn't really work - the product worked well, it was only my misguided use that didn't make it perfect - finally, double and triple seal seams.

5 stars coming from someone who buys cheaper epoxy resin on Amazon. This is my go-to epoxy for the actual production. All clear resin eventually yellows, but this one doesn't for a long time—even after being exposed to the sun for a year (personal test; take it with a grain of salt). Durability = Oh it's hard alright. With proper cure, the surface is really durable and resists dents. BUT please wait 7-14 days after cure before putting your epoxy surface to the test. Drying time = Exactly what the manufacturer says. Yep. Consistency = Pretty forgiving with the A:B ratio BUT PLEASE, don't blame the manufacturer for your user errors. Leakage = Don't blame the manufacturer for your user error. Bubble-Free = Good'ol torch/IPA alcohol spray does the trick for a tabletop pour. I do casting, so I vacuum + pressure pot cure to prevent any bubbles. If you're just getting into epoxy resin craft things, test and play around with cheaper resins on Amazon. The processes are all the same anyway. If you're looking for better quality, crystal-clear for A LOOOONG TIME resin, then you found it.

Do you know how to pour epoxy deep?. Then you will be entirely satisfied with this product. I built a live edge vanity top with tile inlay didn't even need the full capabilities of the epoxy. What a pleasure to work with. IF you are new to epoxy. This is a great starting point product. word of advice to all you who are epoxy pouring your ideas. FOLLOW THE DIRECTION with relaxed intensity; it is a must to be successful. Dust free and temperature controlled environment is also must for open surface pours. Its is also great for bowl mold forming for you turners out their looking to improve your game. you'll never need to pour beyond it maximum with a bowl form mold, and its great in incorporating pigment and mica powder. The products of your pours will be/are going to be stunning and out standing in appearance. YOU will be satisfied with this purchase. the clarity of glass when curing is compete. 72hrous is minimum time to perfection. DON'T rush. Mix twice and mix twice as long as the manufactures recommendations. two measuring cups/buckets for A & B separately, then 5 min each in two diff buckets when mixing, add pig and mica to first mixing bucket, pour to 2nd bucket and mix again, pour, and monitor for bubbles for at least the first 8 - 10 hrs on open surface pours or not using a pressure pot. Did I mention DO NOT RUSH!. Enjoy your pours and limitless possibilities. And about the BASE. make sure your forms will hold water. Pointless if epoxy can not be entirely contained within a form or mold - hint: 3M plastic masking film will sorta peal off once epoxy is cured but with difficult places in folds or creases. so you can line your forms with it to make waterproofing…. Smooth side of FRP board makes a great bottom to build your forms from. Addendum: The shipping is as quit as the system can move. I ordered at 5:30 their time so the business was closed. I checked next morning and product was already in shipping and on the way. The company cares about their products and provides the services and turn around you’d expect from a great company. Beyond all those great things to get you a great product total satisfaction is their goals.

I did some research between a handful of different resin sights before purchasing this product. I always make my way through the less-than-pleasant reviews before working my way into the highly rated ones and found this product suited my needs perfectly. Directions were simple, mixing wasn’t an issue (I absolutely recommend pouring into a second container though). The resin itself settled well and solidified beautifully! I did not, however, order enough on my first round. Updates for shipping stopped at one point, saying “delayed” with no fault to the epoxy company (UPS do better). I sent them a message explaining my issue and they immediately shipped me a new batch! I plan to update this once I have my table sanded down and cannot WAIT to use this resin for future projects. If I could give ten stars, I would. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

I was gifted a rare piece of Canadian Redwood that had floated in the Gulf of Mexico for years, and pulled from the Gulf back in 1970. It was full of sea slug holes, and looked beautiful, but was very fragile, in some places most of the wood was missing due to the slug holes. After consideration, a guitar was the only way to go, since the gifting person's dad was there with him in 1970, and was an accomplished guitar player. Acrylic was the only way to go, since I decided to build a Telecaster electric guitar, and needed to encase the wood so it would be stable. In some places the holes go right through, and you can see clearly through them, this stuff is so crystal. This was about a 1 3/4" thick pour, and with all the holes, I knew I needed to put in a thin layer on the bottom of the mold I built, then lay the wood in, and pour the rest. Worked well. The product performed exactly as advertised. Set up nice, crystal clear, some bubbles got caught due to all the hundreds of holes in the wood, but that was to be expected. I just left them, since they were down a ways, and didn't hurt the structural integrity. Actually, it worked a bit faster than I thought, and in about 72 hours it was totally firm, and I peeled off the mold and began finishing the edges and polishing it. What I DIDN'T expect, was after about three additional days, with just the edges of the guitar to polish off and a few light scratches on the back from the mold, was that the product got SO HARD, I found I didn't have a polish or compound in my shop that would touch it. Now let it be said, I do a lot of golf club restoration, woodworking, file, planer blade and knife sharpening in my shop and I have compounds that will move stainless steel. Not this stuff. Once it fully cured, I could router it,(slowly), to make my neck pocket, control area and pickup holes, but polish it? Forget about it. I worked on it for days, and moved maybe .001 of the stuff. So although a great product, you had better get it polished within the first three days of hardening. For the record, I used a digital scale, calibrated, that measures out to a tenth of an ounce. I made sure the product was measured correctly. Been down that "it didn't cure right" road before. Mixing is everything also, and I used a wooden mixer I made on my lathe that matched the taper of the bottom of my containers that would also go into a drill, so I could mix it completely. Curing not a problem - hardening, Whoh...

Fast delivery. Clear and easy to work with. Fine quality and easy to finish.

Seasoned woodworker, but first deep pour river table...so take this for what's it worth. First off, the epoxy is crystal clear. The micro bubbles came out of it with minimal effort using a torch. I used 2" thick black walnut slabs with about a 4-7 inch river in between. Mold was 3/4 MDF covered with clear packing tape then a heavy coat of past wax. sides to bottom was caulked. ZERO leaks and easy to remove project from mold. Also, I sealed the live edges first using their tabletop epoxy- I highly recommend this step. Brushed on a thin coat, placed in the mold, then tried to seal the bottom of the wood to the mold. I let this dry 2-4 hours as per manufactures recommendation, then poured the deep river. Things I wished I would have known to do: 1. This epoxy takes a long time to get hard....3 days to cure. Fine. However, I used a green Mica powder and poured the river at about 4 PM. I kept stirring the mica around until I got a cool pattern I liked, only to come back a hour later and seen that it settled into a totally different pattern. Stir again...hour later same thing. This went on and on until 2 AM and the epoxy showed no sign of thickening enough to hold the pattern I liked.Went to bed. Set the alarm for 6 AM, but by then, it was too late as the epoxy had thickened to where stirring was out of the question. I think if you pour in the AM hours, the timing would be such you could baby sit it and keep a eye on when to get the stir pattern you like. It needs to thicken up a little to hold. So plan the pour accordingly. If you are using a tint or dye or even just clear, then pour it, get the bubbles out then walk away and wait 2. This epoxy shrinks. I poured with my form being perfectly level in all directions and poured until it just slightly mounded over the top. 3 days later, fully cured, it was down at least 1/8 of an inch from the top surface of the walnut. The way to counter this is to put a bead of caulking along both river edges then pour to the top of the caulking. I've seen this done in videos, but did not do it. I wish I had, because after you get done flattening your slabs, the project gets thinner. I started with a little over 1 7/8" thick and ended up with 1 5/8" Not a huge deal, but something to keep in mind 3. Think hard about green.....looks nice in pictures, but in retrospect....kinda disappointing compared to blues, and blacks, and other hues. Personal preference, but I thought I'd throw that in there. Has nothing to do with the epoxy. In summary, I'm very happy I went with this product and will use it again for sure. I had a technical question for the manufacturer, so I reached out via email and got my answer the next day. This stuff has no bubbles if done correctly, machines and sands very well.

I'm building a 43" x 114" cedar slab table for our back porch, that has two rivers running through it...hence the need for epoxy. Cedar is a soft wood, so I will have a clear epoxy coat over the entire top (along with a very shallow epoxy coat on the sides and bottom of the table, benches and supports). Yeah, so when you do the math, prepare to be surprised at just how much epoxy you need! The epoxy is much less viscous than what I have used before for various hobby needs (Total Boat 1:1 ratio)--in the most obvious way, the difference is that the Deep Pour epoxy will leak out of every microscopic-sized hole that you leave. This is not an epoxy fail, this is just the reason you've to to be really, really careful in your setup, but my experience says that you will not believe how many tapes don't work (at least I'm still surprised). Would strongly suggest having a 3mil plastic sheet under your complete setup, so that you can bring the plastic (which the epoxy won't stick to) up over the edges of your workpiece. Then...you have nothing to worry about re: leaks. The YouTubes I watched from people who have done this before recommended putting the workpiece on melamine-coated sheets, inside a melamine-coated box. I had a number of problems with this (no melamine sheets, so I had to use shelf pieces and join them; my project has live edges, so a "melamine box" doesn't really work). In hindsight I would have had far fewer issues if my table top was lying on a sheet of plastic. The epoxy takes color tinting terrifically. You may be well surprised at how LITTLE color material you need---I would strongly recommend 1/4 tsp for 60oz epoxy as a start, it's amazing how well the color dispurses. This stuff takes about 18 hours to get tacky, which gives you time. This is NOTHING like the 1:1 ratio epoxy I've previously used, that was tacky in 30 mins and cured in ~8 hours. The Deep Pour epoxy needs 72 hours for full cure, though it's hard and no longer tacky in roughly 48 hours. My table is not finished, but I've included a current photo. I need one more pour on the top and then I won't touch it for three days. In fact, I won't be anywhere near it for three days, so I can avoid stirring up dust in my shop that lands on my table. For all you folks who do this all the time and feel compelled to point out all my mistakes...please try and restrain yourself, it's my first one. And possibly my last one, as this will go on my back porch here in hill country Texas, and there's no place in my house where I could put something of this size. Now, re: the company--I can only comment on their curiously fast shipping times. Much appreciated! Recalling the comment about doing the math in advance to figure how just how much you need...prepared to need more. Given the price of the epoxy, I did not order it all at once, I ordered batch...after batch...after batch, thinking that maybe/possibly/hopefully I did the math wrong. I didn't. So it looks like I'll need a total of 15 gallons for the entire project. The good news is, the table will last WAY longer than I will, so my kids can fight over it one day.

Yes it’s clear but it looks so dull and foggy after it’s done .You can definitely see the imperfections and cracking.I’m disappointed in this product.In addition, the price was reduced after I purchased the product