ACCEL 140033-8 SuperCoil Ignition Coil - Yellow - 8-Pack

I used this to replace my coils on a 2004 ford F150, 165K miles. My truck began to sputter at highway speeds. A little online research pointed to the coils being bad. At the time, I also changed my spark plugs since waiting to the 100k since the last change wouldn't fly (read problems with 2004 f150 plugs). Anyway, I changed both plugs and coils and my truck has run flawlessly, without the sputtering problems. In case you wonder if the plugs made the difference or the coils... All the plugs were evenly worn, and none were more burned up than the rest. I also was able to pull out the plugs (autolites HT1) without any of them breaking like the oems did. Therefore, I believe the problem was in the coil. FYI.. For those who say you can check the resistance in the coil to identify a bad one.. Keep in mind that the coils resistance changes with the temperature as they coil down. So you will not get repeatable readings until the coils are fully cooled. And even then, a cooled off coil may not indicate if its bad or good, like when the coil is hot under load. To better understand that, you need to be an electrician or understand the assembly and inner workings of coil under a load. The coils came in individually packaged boxes, all packed into one bigger Accel box. Accel has been around for quite a long time, and at $205 dollars with Amazon prime, it definetly was worth the price.. It would have cost me $75 to take to a shop to find the bad coil, and another $75 to replace just one. So it was $150 for the exact known coil to replace if it was just one coil, or for $205 replace them all since they had 165K Miles anyway. So I choose to replace all of them. I definately recommend these coils and replacing all of your coils if you have high miles and are replacing any of them anyway.. Good luck!

I have to first post the very negative review I posted for the cheap brown unmarked COPs also sold on Amazon. Because the moment I installed these, my 08 F250 was back in the game and no codes and no misfires or lags! Review or cheap china product: I've changed plugs and COPs on multiple vehicles over the years, namely a 2005 Mustang GT, 2001 Expedition, and my current 2008 f250 5.4ltr, and plugs on my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee, a 1995 Chevy k3500, and a 2005 Buick LaCrosse, I also have a great $350 Bosch code reader. Im a general contractor, I do mixed driving all the time, I often have some kind of payload or a cargo trailer. I purchased my 08 f250 5.4ltr in mid sept 2016, with 120k miles on IG. I knew that it was overdue for new plugs and COPs, and other things. In late October the engine threw codes, spark and cop problems. I purchased oem plugs from my local autozone and I desperately needed to save money at that time, and decided against purchasing COPs I knew would work 100% from the local guy's and purchased online. I was worried at the time this product had only 3 reviews, and the other product that are yellow had several hundred reviews, but they cost significantly more. I figure: it's just a work truck, not a performance build. I waited to do all the installation at once. The moment after I was done and cleared all codes and even disconnected the battery for 10 minutes to wipe the computer, I reconnected and turned the engine over and it took forever to get it going. It wasn't a battery issue, I had the dealer put in a new one. My truck then acted like it was a manual and I didn't know how to drive and kept the clutch in too long, it stalled every time it had to accelerate. I would later learn I had to have the truck warmed up every morning similar to a disel otherwise when I pressed the gas it would roll, chok and and misfire for 5+ seconds before finally starting to accelerate like a 1989 geo metro losing gear. I couldn't merge into traffic safely anymore. When it idled I could hear it misfire and rock between below 500 RPMS and it's normal idel of about 750 RPMs. It routinely died if I didn't feather the gas petal if I was reversing upna hill, say from a convenience store sloped parking space. I could barely make it hit 20 MPh unloaded and not under tow when going up a hill of really any steepness. And the engine breaking built into the truck for when I did tow also was malfunctioning. My transmission would routinely over work itself to make up for the lack of power and constant misfire and seemingly bad timing of the engine, it would reve up to 5k but then stall until I feathered the gas pedal and allowed the engines actual speed to catch up. When the weather was below freezing all of these problems became even worse! I had to deal with this for months due to money and work conflicts: the code reader told me the same error codes as before. It ran WORSE than with the original faulty COPS that I purchased it with. The electrical tests seemed fine. Finally I purchased the more downside higher performance yellow COP kit, and just installed it. On a 30 mile mixed driving test drive, with multiple stops stop lights and parking, up hills and down hills, high RPM and not, here's no issue. You would think I put in a supercharger. And no codes: what a dangerous, irresponsible waste of money these parts are. The white residue on two of these 4 month old COPs is from the constant misfires. **** end***

Very easy to put on but the spark plug was another story. I have a 2008 Lincoln Navigator and the motor craft spark plugs are known to break off. I followed the instruction to removal to the book and still manage to brake 4 spark plugs, thus requiring the ford spark plug removal kit for 99. It was very weird because all 4 broke off on the left but the other 5 on the right came out with no problem and with sparking carbonator cleaning in first and letting it sit for 6 hours soaking. They still broke off. Another issue I ran into was that a rock.. I and I mean the perfect rock was inside the spark plug well and was wedged into the spark plug. it had been there for a long time and could of been causing the problems with the spark plug becase the rock was burnt. It had to be removed because the ratchet would not go on the bolt to get the spark plug out. Well it took about and hour and we came up with a solution. We grind down an allen wrench down so that it can go below the spark plug bolt and set under the rock. I then use vice grips needle nose to grab the allen wrench and then a metal rode to pull up on the vice grips. Well the metal rod broke. I then use a tire iron and with one big pull up it popped out. The rock was so wedge into the spark plug that it would not move and this was the only way to get it out. I sucked it up with a vacuum that I made with a big hard straw on it and presto we could then get to the bolt. Food for thought if you run into this same problem. I do not know how a rock got into there bout after an hour I was glad to have it removed. Well a little wiser and filling very accomplished, I removed the four broken spark plugs with the tool. It is very easy to use but you need to make sure you push the broken spark plug all the way down using the tool so other tool can grad onto it. It may require you to stop and wind the screw back up and start again. The truck runs like new again and I have seen a big notice on the response and no more misfires. I do not know about the gas for now so I will have to watch and see if it does save gas but for power its very noticeable on the navigator.

First, if you are purchasing this for a 2005 F-150 or Eddie Bauer Expedition with a 3V Triton V-8, these are the correct coils. The Amazon selector would have you purchase the 2V version for the Expedition (don't ask me how I know this!). The two valve version is 140032-8 2. Thanks to Amazon's fantastic return policy, it was easy cheesy, lemon squeezy to get the correct coils. Again, these coils are for the 3V Triton engine. As for the coils, they are obviously high quality and they perform as well or better than the originals. I will tell you, though, that I have not tested the removed originals to determine if they are, indeed, bad. My Expedition started "bumping" while easing uphill and I first thought it was a transmission issue. Turns out, it was a tune-up issue. I got over 100,000 miles on the original coils and plugs, so I'm not complaining. The biggest reason, beyond age, to replace the coils when replacing the plugs are that you DON'T want to go through that evolution twice. It took me almost 3 and 1/2 hours to change eight plugs and coils. On my Expedition, I had to remove the control modules on the passenger side firewall to even reach the back two plugs. The driver's side rear two plugs, while having no obstructions, were still a bear to get to because they are recessed into the firewall. If you are also changing the plugs and they are the original, do yourself a favor and have a special 9/16" spark plug wrench with a welded 6" extension available. Your life will be easier, trust me. I bought mine here (OTC 6900 Ford F-150 Spark Plug Socket) on Amazon. You need one because the plugs are WAY recessed in the head and if you had to fish the socket out, it would be a huge pain due to clearance issues. I managed to do my plugs without removing the fuel injection rail, but I can see how the job would be easier if I had. The Champion 7989 plugs I replaced the originals with were 5/8". No welded extension required. The reason you want Champions (other than their quality) are that the nut and electrode shell are machined as one solid piece whereas the original Motorcraft plugs are two separate pieces which have been known to separate inside the head. This means you would have to have a special removal tool to get the electrode housing out. If not successful, you would have to remove the head. NO FUN either way! I did mine on a 40 degree day so it was cold enough that the housing didn't bind too much in the head. The plugs made an ugly sound coming out though! Most importantly, make sure you have nickel based anti-sieze (Permatex 77124)available for the plugs and silicone dielectric for the coils when you do replace them. Both are available at a good price here on Amazon. Don't shy away from this job!! Ford wanted $300 per coil/plug to replace. I did my whole job for less than $350 (parts and supplies). You do the math. Good Luck!

Item came on time and as described however it doesn't work for my vehicle like Amazon said it would

have a 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with the 3valve 4.6l V8. When I got it (one owner used, <30k miles) it was peppy and had no problem getting going for being such a heavy vehicle with a tall profile. I was very pleased. As it got older, it was like an old dog, still your best friend, but can't keep up like it used to. Around 85k it started developing what I thought were transmission problems - dropping out of overdrive and missing shifts around 45mph under light load. The funny thing was, if you hammered on it, it still ran and shifted like a champ. A little bit of digging around Ford forums, and I find out that the issue is the coils and plugs being worn, dropping random sparks, and causing engine hesitation, which made the transmission drop gears. So, after discovering that the Motorcraft coils were more than $40 each, I began looking for another solution. Cleveland, Ohio's own Accel had the answer, and Amazon had the price. These were a perfect fit, no issues getting them in or connecting the harnesses. The computer didn't complain, and everything came back to life perfectly. (The spark plugs were another story - check my other reviews.) The best news, last tank was about 14.3 mpg. This tank was 17.4 mpg. At an average price of $3.50 per gallon for 87, my payback period for these is about 55 gallons of gas, which I should save in less than 4500 miles. In a third of a year, these will be paying me back - doesn't get any better than that.

Works great, only 4 stars due to the fact that I bought it because this exact one went out on my truck. Truck had them when I bought it so might've had a long life, but at 166k, the originals probably weren't replaced until closer to 100. Who knows.

I was apprehensive about purchasing these because they were fairly cheap compaired to those at the local parts stores. I read all the reviews and was willing to take the chance. $200 was better than $800 anyday. PROBLEM: I noticed a jumping/hesitation whenever I put the truck under any load (hills, passing, towing). Gas mileage was around 11.2 MPG. Initially thought my transmission was slipping but did my research on the F-150 forums and also talking to several mechanics. The dealer was going to charge me over $700 to diagnose which coil pack was bad and replace it. Since the truck has 165,000 miles I decided to change all of them. But not at the price they wanted, that would be a small fortune. INSTALLATION: Installation took me a little over an hour for all eight and that was taking my time. FYI...remove the module and bracket on the left side of the engine for easier access to the two rear packs. Ensure to use an air compressor to blow out any dirt/dust from area prior to removal and to also blow our cavity prior to removal. Very simple to remove and install. Just one screw and one connector and they pull right out. Add your dialectric grease to the new coil pack and install. Super easy. POST INSTALL: Initially start was Instantaneous. Motor sounded perfect. Pulled out of my driveway and was surprised by the throttle response. Left a little rubber on the road. Was use to driving it with sluggish performance. Not the case any longer. Zero hesitation and smooth ride and acceleration. Drove it all weekend and my mileage went from 11.2 to 17+. Extremely happy with the product and would recommend to anyone. Already telling everyone at work about it now. Great work ACCEL.

worked great on my 2004 ford f150 and way cheaper than the originals.

Instaladas en Ford Explorer 4.6 V8 de 3V. Me ayudarón a resolver un problema de falla de CAN de transmisión y ABS causado por las bobinas del lado derecho. La señal de las bobinas interfiere con los cables del CAN de la transmisión que pasan por encima de las bobinas 3 y 4 del V8 4.6. Además mi motor presentaba ciertos tambaleos por causa de encendidos disparejos. Compre el kit completo de 8 unidades y santo remedio. AL instante desaparecieron los cabeceos del motor, mejoró notablemente la respuesta del motor y la falla del CAN de transmisión desapareció. El precio fue insuperable, ya que cada bobina original de motorcraft cuesta $1600.00 y compré el kit en Amazon por tan solo $2600.00. Este kit te sirve para bobinas de capuchón negro o café, en mi caso debería haber comprado las 140033E con el capcuchon de color café, pero el precio se triplicaba a $6600.00, simplemente compré estas y les cambie los capuchones estirando un poco el resorte del nucleo y quedó perfecta. Ahí te aspo el truco si tu motor trae capuchón café, las puedes usar sin problemas, solo cambia el capuchón. Las recomiendo ampliamente, en los motores Ford sí o sí, es necesario tarer lds bobinas al 100 ya que son de inyección directa y se demanda mucho el uso del dispositivo. Ojo que de no darles un buen mantenimiento se daña la computadora y está difíciles de conseguir. Yo tardé 3 años en conseguir la que debía llevar mi motor, así que no te la juegues, si te fallan una o dos bobinas, piensa en poner el kit de 8, te ahorrarás muchos problemas de respuesta y cabeceo, a la vez que estarás protegiendo el circuito de activación de la computadora. Ojo que las bobinas de $300.00 pesos solo sirven para una emergencia y no para el funcionamiento a largo plazo.

Hola buenas tardes te comento que una bobina se fracturó la base donde se atonilla me podrías vender una gracias

Ordered wrong part # need coils ending in 32 not 33 but the right ones work great

had the jerking problem on my 06 f150 5.4 These coils solved my problem. And these really throttle up !!!