BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V3.0 32Bit Control Board with TMC2209 UART Stepper Driver New Upgrade 3D Printer Silent Board for Ender 3, Ender3 Pro, Ender-3 V2 3D Printer

This is an amazing product light-years better the the original board I had it works fanatically my printer has never worked so good and it's so much quieter... over the moon happy...... more importantly the seller is wonderful I had a slight shipping error (postal system not the seller).... But the seller responded and helped me out almost instantly... wonderful human being I 100% recommend

Replacement seems a little intimidating at first, but it's really pretty straightforward. It's just a process of unplugging about 694 little plugs from the old board, then re-plugging them back into the new board in the exact same place. There are a bunch of videos on the YouTube to help. Probably the biggest challenge may really be getting those 6-8 little tiny screws in and out of the printer to open the box and remove the old board. Take a drink or stop drinking before starting- whichever steadies your hands. Functionality is incredible. I used to be able to hear my printer from downstairs, now the fans are by far the loudest part of the machine. Going to add some beep tones to the slicer profile so I can tell when it's done. EDIT: on my second or third print, my extruder jammed with PLA mysteriously wadded up around the gear. Pulled it out, cleaned it up, and started printing again. A day later, it happened again. Googling took me to several posts about these boards pumping out too much current to the drive motors, causing overheating. In my case, the extruder motor was getting hot enough to melt the filament as it was pushing it. Learned that you need to lower the drive current to all of the motors once you replace the board. Now everything is cool to the touch. GCODE I used was: M906 X535 Y535 Z535 E640. Just add it to the start commands in your slicer or set in the printer firmware. Recommended.

When I was repairing my Ender 3's board due to a burnt out power terminal, I opted to buy one of the competing boards to this one. Unfortunately, those boards had two Z-axis motor connection points, and when I powered on my board, I found that for some odd reason, my hotend would smack the x-stop repeatedly when auto-homing. I bought this board instead, and it worked perfectly. Noise levels are nearly zero, and I can finally sleep with a print running. Print quality didn't noticeably increase, though I haven't done any tests to check the accuracy. All in all a solid board, and definitely worth the money.

The swap out went easier than I expected. The hot end fan used screw terminals on the original Ender 3 board. This board expects a two pin connector; no biggie. The board came programmed with a bootloader and some version of Marlin which was handy to verify that everything powered up OK. I rebuilt Marlin 2.1.2 with the features I wanted. Bootloader worked fine. Had to play with the default fan pin assignments in the firmware to get fans to work correctly. Stepper drivers are really quiet!

Easy to update firmware, super quiet. Was it necessary? For me not really, but I bricked my board and needed to replace it. I could have bought the cheaper one, but decided on this one.