Loctite Super Glue Plastics Bonding System, Clear, 0.21 fl oz Kit, 1 Pack

Did the job!!

Held great

I got this after trying regular superglue and activated construction CA. I just bought the little tube to try and because I have had experience with CA in general with relatively short shelf life after opening. My main application is to bond High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) to polycarbonate. A test bond allowed to set overnight was very good. The same test with regular CA superglue was not strong at all. At the same time I tried gluing HDPE to HDPE - about a 1/4" by 1/2" bond with a couple of smooth pieces of small scrap. This was much stronger than the plain CA bond, but I would not depend on it for structural strength, as I was able to break the bond with significant force from my fingers and pliers. Based on my experience with CA adhesives in the past, I expect that other reviewers are right about this stuff drying up over time, but if I can do one or two projects with it, I am happy enough.

I used it to repair a broken component on the rail system of my paintball gun. To date, it has maintained its integrity effectively, which is noteworthy given the significant stress it endures.

To make the below a long story short: As others have written the activator pen is dry. Further glued pieces didn't hold polypropylene to polypropylene. I don't know how much activator needs to be on the surfaces, but I went as far as taking to cap off and pulling out the material inside to try wringing it out and rubbing it in the surfaces. This seemed like I got some moisture out, and I noticed when applying glue some of it seemed to active turning hazy and some didn't the glue stayed clear. I bought acse and I opened 4 packages and none were very moist, I'm not sure if this is how moist it should be or not. As far as success I didn't have great luck. I was glueing cutting boards, polypropylene to polypropylene. It had a surface texture so the area I was glueing wasn't smooth, maybe I need a structural type epoxy for low energy surfaces, but this is much more expensive and harder to find. Anyhow, I was going to screw on rubber feet and I was working with a 1 inch slab, and when I went to screw in the feet the pieces I glued just separated. Luckily I had some appropriate sized sheet metal screws that were long enough to screw the feet and go in far enough to screw in the blocks the glued didn't adhere. Based on this I wouldn't recommend this product, especially for polypropylene and/or textured surfaces. Additionally you can't send it back since it's considered a flammable product. So looks like I'm out a few bucks.

EDIT: Two years later and still holding strong. I recently had to pull apart some silicone rubber that I had glued to PVC. The glue bond was extremely strong, the rubber tore without the glue bond ever letting go at all. That's the most you could ask for. It also works well for metal to plastic. I keep this handy for all sorts of plastic repairs and builds. First I'll have to say that the little tube of glue that comes with this turned out to be useless, it just glued itself shut. Not a big problem as there was a large bottle of Locktite superglue handy, so I used that. The activator agent comes in a metal tube with a felt tip, similar to a magic marker or Sharpie. The fluid is clear and hard to see, but it does come out and you can smell it. I treated both surfaces to be glued, even if one wasn't plastic. After the fluid evaporates you use the superglue just like normal. I was happily gluing silicone rubber tubes to a softer silicone rubber base with no problems. Adhesion is fast and strong. Then I read that this is NOT for silicone rubber. Oh well, I don't care, it works great and is easy to use. The bond is often stronger than the silicone itself. What more could you want? There was plenty of the activator for my use, in fact I have some left over.

This Locate Plastic bonder system is basically just superglue, with a "step one" primer of Heptane. Superglue on its own doesn't "stick" well (adhere) to a lot of plastics, even though its strong stuff. The solution is to "prime" the plastic with something that allows the superglue to get a better grip. That is what Loctite plastic bonder system is. Step 1 (the primer), is a "Heptane" liquid/gas "pen". You pop the cap, and then draw (like a felt tipped marker) on the plastic on the bond points. The liquid heptane in the catridge wicks down the felt tip, onto the plastic, and it dissolves "into" the plastic. On a brand new Step 1 cartridge, you can see a slight color adjustment as the liquid Heptane coats the plastic. That disappears nearly immediately (in less than 1 second) as heptane turns gaseous and evaporates nearly instantly at room temperature. Part 2 is just cynoacrylate (superglue). You can get superglue much cheaper just about everywhere when compared to Loctite Plastic's Bonder System. So what you are really paying for here is the Heptane pen. When you use the pen, IMMEDIATELY put the pen top back on when done. The Heptane is VERY volatile and evaporates quickly and easily. You are burning money ever second you have the top off the pen. Your use should be get ready eyeball your pen approaches to the plastic surfaces, be 100% prepared, pull of the pen-top, draw onto each area to be bonded, and then immediately replace the pen-cap again. Then wait for 30-60 seconds (the time it takes for all the Heptane to evaporate), and then use the Step 2 plastics bonder. If you run out of Step 2 (rare, but does happen if you follow my recommendations to Preserve your Primary pens as long as possible), then you can just use a regular bit of SuperGlue in place of the Step 2 tube, because that all that is in there anyway. Some plastics are more dependent on good priming for a good glue seal with high adhesion. Others need it less (more porous plastics are less dependent). Some plastics cannot be bonded with Superglue at all, even with priming. This glue, when it works (which is most of the time if used properly) is the "neatest" solution, with the least amount of over-glue leaking out of the glue joint. And if you are quick with a paper towel (on hand before you start), you can even clean up over-glue leaks. Holding is OK, but varies with the success of the Step 1 primer heptane. That Heptane basically dissolves mirco-holes into the plastic for the Step2 superglue to adhere to. For finer work, or to get pieces into a "locked" in place, I used this glue on plastic. Then, on plastic on which I can put plenty of overglue (e.g. places were the esthetics do not matter), I use instead an Epoxy type (or Urethane type) glue to bond instead. Urethans are usually "runnier" and thinner (good for car bumpers), and Epoxy's are a bit thicker (but often stronger and set faster). I use those after the piece has been secured with the Loctite Step1 + Step2 bonder (e.g. primer + superglue). That makes the plastic indestructably strong (epoxy), or much tougher (Urethane) then the Loctite by itself. But if you need to bond plastic and the esthetics do matter, then this Loctite primer + glue is a good solution.

Excelente !

My cooler plastic part is broken , no glue is working because of soft plastic propery , after searching i got to onow about this loctite glue , which joint polypropylene and it works. after joining cooler broken part , i start my cooler again. This is the best thing i have got because this is not available in local shops. The activator is dry there is no liquid inside activator glue only some cotton whic has little liquid left that i used after cutting activator glue. only bonder glue is in liqiud form that i use and it work. So it is very usefull to worl on thermoplastic.

I used this glue with primer to attach a Teflon slider on a rubber soled curling shoe. Been using it for two months and so far so good. Very difficult problem to solve as Teflon is very slippery and nonporous.