15 Minute Mid Cure Epoxy 128g (4.5oz)

Works well cures fast.

I have used this 15 Minute Mid Cure Epoxy before with success. This recent purchase was a replacement as one of two components had become rather too stiff to easily squeeze out of the bottle. Still mixed and glued OK though.

excellent . great glue.

15 minute epoxy works as expected. It was exactly right for repairing items that needed to be doweled and strapped after gluing and before glue set up.

Best of both: time to ‘get it right’ and rock solid when cured. Recently used my first sample of your brand to fix an UMAREX item others said was un-fixable. Now I’ve added this powerful tool to my array for backlog of “needs fixed”. Already have my 2nd order for this 15min version in my cart as I’m sure ima use it up quick! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

I chose the No.203 epoxy to assemble golf clubs and have used the product numerous times over the past three years. It is significantly more flexible than other epoxies. This makes it an excellent choice to attach heads to shafts and to fix an extender in the butt end of a shaft. Another feature of No. 203 is that it has a lower melting point than other epoxies. This is particularly useful when removing a head from a graphite shaft. With No. 203, I am able to use an electric heat gun instead of a propane torch to heat the hosel or adapter. This minimizes the chance of damaging the paint on a club head or distorting an adjustable adapter. Many DYI's who work on golf clubs use the hardest epoxies with high melting points they can find. I've worked on clubs in which the original J-B Weld was used to hold the head to the shaft. When such an epoxy is used, it is nearly impossible to remove the head without damaging the paint and, most often, without damaging the graphite shaft, which are, themselves, made of graphite cloth saturated with an epoxy-like resin. When the graphite shaft is overheated while removing the head, it is destroyed. If you work on golf clubs, you will have noticed that many manufacturers are now using an adhesive with a low melting point similar to No. 203. In particular, TaylorMade is using something which never seems to completely harden and remains somewhat "gummy". When I noticed this three or four years ago, I searched for something similar and found BSI-203. While it is not the same as the adhesive used by TM, it is somewhat flexible and the lower melting point makes it easier to remove a head. I did have one failure where the head came loose when playing. However, I attribute this failure to poor work on my part, either by not having mixed equal parts of epoxy and hardener or by moving the position of the head on the shaft while it was setting up.

Works great for all my small projects. Would definitely recommend this.

Anyone that buys epoxy should also buy epoxy mixing cups.I use a toothpick to stir it with. I break very end of first, that works best for me.