Odorless Bathtub Refinishing Kit – Durable, Self-Leveling Epoxy for DIY Reglazing – Works on Porcelain, Fiberglass, Enamel, Acrylic, Cast Iron – 2.7kg – Made in the USA

I recently took on my first bathtub refinishing project and wasn’t sure which product to use. After some research, I decided to try the Armoglaze Bathtub Refinishing Kit, and I’m so glad I did. While the process seemed a bit daunting at first, the results were fantastic, and with the right preparation, it was surprisingly straightforward. **Preparation is Key** The most important lesson I learned is that proper preparation is crucial for success. You'll start by thoroughly scrubbing the tub with an abrasive cleaner to remove grime and residue. If I were to do this again, I’d use a small orbital tool (like those used for car buffing) to make the process faster and more efficient. A razor blade scraper is an absolute must-have and proved invaluable at every stage of the process. From opening the box to removing old caulk during prep, and even cleaning up after painting. The scraper made it easy to clean up those excess paint along the edges, leaving a neat and polished finish. **Painting Process** The kit comes with everything you need, and mixing the epoxy is simple. You combine a small jar of Part A directly into the bucket of Part B, creating more than enough epoxy to cover an entire tub. I actually found myself removing excess epoxy pooling by the drain. The instructions clearly mention that you might need to use the entire mixture, which I did not heed (and should have). If you’re new to this, I highly recommend watching the official Armoglaze how-to video, which demonstrates the process in under two minutes. It’s a great way to familiarize yourself with the tools in the kit and the technique. Take some time to practice the motions beforehand, as you’ll only have about 1.5 to 2 hours to apply the epoxy once it’s mixed. The epoxy spreads smoothly and evenly, and its self-leveling properties work like magic to correct minor imperfections. Just be sure to start coating from the upper areas of the tub, as the enamel will naturally flow toward the bottom. **Final Thoughts** Overall, the Armoglaze kit made my first refinishing project a success. The instructions were clear, and the product delivered a smooth, professional-looking finish. While it does take effort and patience—especially during the prep work—the results are absolutely worth it. If you’re new to bathtub refinishing, I highly recommend this kit. Just heed the instructions, and don’t forget to cover your tub’s spout! Learn from my mistakes, and you’re sure to love the outcome!

I am a complete amateur! I don't do "Do it yourself' projects," but I'm living in a rental house right now that is over 50 years old, and my bathroom had a horrible blue bathtub that had chips and stains all over it! Obviously, I'm not putting a lot of money into a house I don't own, but I hated that bathtub so much! It felt dirty every time I got in it no matter how much I cleaned. So---I had already painted and epoxied the horrible blue counter, and that turned out beautiful (mixed in some pearl pigment, the whole counter looks like pearl marble now). So--I figured if I could do a counter, why not a bathtub? I read up about different products, and nearly everyone seemed to have had total failures with the cheap Rust-oleum products, so I decided I'd rather put a little more money into it and get it right the first time! I was so proud of myself! I work 40 hrs. a week, so I had to devote weekends to prepping the tub, and I literally spent two weekends on it. I scrubbed it with everything, sanded it twice, fixed the chips. Then I poured the stuff and got started! Oh my God! You know that video where the guy goes through it so fast and makes it look like it is the easiest thing in the world? Looked like he never even spilled a drop? I should have made a video of myself doing it, and they could have played that one first and called it, "What not to do!" I had paint everywhere! My nice taped plastic came up 10 minutes after I started, and it was crumbling up all over the place, hitting the sides of the tub, and my comb and trowel kept getting lost in it. I had paint covering half my face, my neck, both arms, one of my ears, both feet and my stomach (never quite figured out how it got there)! I was sweating like a pig after 10 minutes in that hot bathroom! If you sweat--it's a problem because you can't get this stuff wet. I sweated a lot of drops into it. I did figure out that I could tell the difference between the sweat and the bubbles because the sweat had a yellowish look to it, and those drops wouldn't go away with the heat gun like the bubbles would. It was actually fixable if I went over it with some more paint, but I had to constantly turn around and wipe my face on a hanging towel (be sure you have one because your gloved hands are going to be covered in paint, so you can't just pick up a towel and wipe your face). Also, if you are a sweater, tie a tight headband around your head to catch some of the sweat. Given the fact that my plastic was all over the place instead of taped in front of the tub, when I poured the paint on the outside, I had about a five inch pool on the floor all along the outside of the tub. Luckily, I'm planning to cover the old ugly linoleum with stick tiles anyway (which cost $8 a box at Roses), so it was no big problem for me, but I'm sure it would be for someone who plans to keep their floor. After an hour and a half, I was so hot and so tired and so thirsty that I thought I'd die if I didn't get out of there. I had just tried to fix a couple of places on the front, and I had drips running all over the place, and it looked horrible. I thought, "Okay, it was worth a try. I'll just have to scrape it all off." Then, I went out and went to the other bathroom and spent 30 minutes pouring acetone all over myself trying to get the paint off. My clothes went into the garbage--don't even think you're going to be able to save your clothes so wear something you hate! Once I was finally clean and cleaned up the paint marks on the floor where I tracked it with my bare feet, and had a nice glass of ice tea, I felt better--when to my horror I suddenly realized I hadn't taken the tape off the drains! I think I actually cried a little at the thought of going back in there. But when I went in, I was amazed that all that dripping on the front was gone, and it was level! Taking the tape off the drains was a nasty little mess--nothing like the easy little job they did in the video, but I did manage to get them off. The RESULT! After all that mess and sweating and crumpled plastic---the tub turned out perfect! There is not a single drip or mistake anywhere! It looks like a new tub! So, the moral of this story is---if I could do this with all of my amateur mistakes--ANYONE can do it. If you put your time into the prep work, it's really hard to mess this up, (even though doing it is a horrible mess--you just have to know that going in and decide whether saving a few thousands bucks on a tub is worth a couple hours of mind-numbing horror!) I LOVE the new tub! Wish I had some pictures, but I have the first Trac Phone that was ever invented, and it doesn't take pictures, do voicemail, and sometimes it doesn't even ring. So--I'll have to leave it all to your imagination, but I'm thrilled! My bathtub looks amazing! After all of that--I'd try buy this stuff & try it again!

I'll start off with saying that the product itself seems to be a great quality. But! It is WAY more involved than expected and the supplies they provide (combs) are a joke. The only useful tool you will get is the yellow plastic trowel. The instructions were easy to follow, and detailed. I recommend going to the website and downloading the pdf of the detailed instructions. DO NOT go off of the video alone. There is no dialogue, and it is extremely misleading. The hardest part will be the prep work. Our tub was previously restored (badly) by the first homeowner. There is a step in the instructions telling you to determine if your tub has been previously restored. If so- prepare for the longest prep of your life. The instructions suggest using paint stripper- easy enough- so we went to purchase some. On every can of paint stripper, however, there is a warning on the container that says DO NOT USE TO STRIP BATHTUBS. Ok...this left us with power sanding the old paint off. The instructions didn't say to do this, instead they suggested using a razor blade scraper. Ha! You'd be there all week long razor blading your tub. Not too efficient. Power sanding seemed to do the trick in just a couple of hours. Once the prep work was complete and the bathroom floor taped up with a plastic drop cloth, we were ready to pour. Note that you will need to clean the entire bathroom, not just the tub as instructed. Every piece of dust and strands of hair will magically settle onto the tub otherwise. Mix in part B SLOWLY to part A. Air bubbles form very easily and get on the tub, ruining the finish. If this happens the instructions say to use a blow dryer on the bubbles, but that makes the substance TACKY and difficult to work with. (Also, once the product is mixed be sure to set a timer for 2 hours, because time flies when you're stressed out, crying, and trying not to mess up this home improvement project that you thought would be a fantastic idea...) The epoxy starts to cure just before the two hour mark, making smoothing out virtually impossible. The instructional video makes pouring and spreading look so easy! It looks like the material flows smoothly and it is easy to disperse. Nope! This stuff is thick. THIIIIIICK. Moving it is laborious and the comb only works to move giant puddles or blobs around. The comb will not work for anything else. It actually leaves groove marks in the epoxy itself and you'd think that it would smooth itself out as it settles, right? No. The epoxy appears to smooth out when in reality there are tiny ridges EVERYWHERE you tried to comb. Don't do it unless you comb first thing to get the product dispersed, then smooth it out with the yellow trowel. The yellow trowel is your savior. Curves and ridges in the tub are your enemy. We used maybe half of the material provided. There was so much left over we thought we did something wrong...but the instructions say that the thickness should only be about 1/16th of an inch. You'll need to keep up on the epoxy pooling at the base of the tub, too. Scrape from the base of the tub up the walls and get that extra material back into the bucket. You'll do this quite a few times. Still though puddles manage to form at the base...which you can see in one of the pictures I attached. It was already past the two hour mark so that's unfortunately how it'll have to be. If this happens it's not the end of the world, just frustrating. Especially if you're a perfectionist. Overall, the tub looks better than it did before, just be aware of what you're getting into and prepare for an entire days work. Hopefully you have a second bathroom, or a friend or family member who will let you shower at their place afterwards, because you'll be dirty and can't use your shower for at least 24 hours. Enjoy!

When I purchased my new home, one of the very first items on my endless to-do list was finding a solution for my bathtub. A contractor I trust told me it looked like the realtor had used a cheap refinishing spray for staging—and it was already peeling quickly. I really wanted my dream tub to unwind in, especially with all the unpacking ahead. That same contractor recommended “reglazing” the tub and specifically suggested the Armoglaze bathtub refinishing kit. Full disclosure: I had him do the work because my DIY confidence for achieving a perfect result wasn’t quite there. That said, the outcome exceeded my expectations. From what I observed, the process actually looked manageable enough that I’d consider doing a second tub myself in the future. Not only is this a superior product, but the price is very reasonable for the quality and results you get. On top of that, the business owner, Mikhail, was a pleasure to work with. He personally took several of my calls during the evaluation process and patiently answered my many questions. If you’re considering upgrading your bathtub or shower floor, I wholeheartedly give Armoglaze and their support the highest rating.

Used this product on an old plastic shower pan. There is a smaller kit, but I got this one as my shower is “full sized” and I didn’t want to fear I’d run out of epoxy during the application process. I pretty much used 75% of the kit for this project. There was a ton of prep work ahead of this to remove old caulking and wash any chemicals or dirt from the pan. We washed and scrubbed and scrubbed and washed probably 4 or 5 times after we were 100% sure any old caulking was gone. Final cleaning was with a rubbing alcohol. After taping off the walls and drain, I put a couple of layers of plastic on the bathroom floor so that I could remove a layer periodically to keep the working area clean. Think I read this in someone else’s review. This didn’t work so well, it was such a mess, I wasn’t about to try removing a a layer of covering in the middle of the project. When you are ready to apply, be ready to be on your knees for 2 solid hours. Application was exactly as seen in the videos online. After 7 minutes of slow mixing the chemicals, Just put some epoxy in a red solo cup and pour it out on the edges letting it run down to the bottom of the pan. The kit came with some brushes and a yellow squeegee. I literally only used the yellow squeegee. I tried the brush once which put lines in the epoxy, so tossed it aside to use the squeegee. Way more efficient. Probably took me 25 minutes to finish the application. The remaining hour and a half was spent hunched over the drain scrapping out the excess that flowed. I used the yellow squeegee, but it probably would have been easier with a smaller or curved device. Maybe even a large spoon. Just take it slow and scoop it out. Over time the chemicals thicken and the paint you scoop out comes less and less. Once I was done, I left the tape in the drain and on the edges of the floor overnight while everything dried. This made it a bit difficult to remove the tape the next day. Probably should have taken it off when it was still “moist” but not still flowing. Anyway, I cut it with a razor blade carefully and it was fine. The final product is about 1/16” or more thick. This was at our vacation home, so we left the next day. The epoxy cured for 2 weeks before we returned and stepped on it. Visually it looks awesome. In an up close inspection there are a few minor flaws, but nothing that would stand out if you weren’t aware. My wife and I are very happy with the outcome. Spending the money on this was a 100 times cheaper than replacing the pan by a professional. Time will tell how it holds up, but for us, it’s not used daily so should be good for years to come. Oh one other thing to add, because the shower pan is plastic, there was no need to use the etching chemical. I called the company and spoke with the owner who said that is only needed for application on a metal tub. For a plastic pan, you can apply the epoxy directly after doing the appropriate prep work.

After experiencing a shower pan failure on my tiled shower floor, I decided to give the Armoglaze Refinishing Kit a try. I'm not exactly a DIY expert—I have zero experience working with epoxy—but this kit made the project surprisingly manageable. I started by thoroughly cleaning, scrubbing, and sanding the existing tiled floor, then applied two coats of acrylic primer. Once I had the surface prepped, I used the epoxy from the kit to create a new, waterproof shower floor. The procedures were straightforward, and the application process was simple enough for someone like me who isn’t very handy. One aspect I particularly appreciated was how easy it was to eliminate air bubbles using a heat gun; this step was a breeze and really helped achieve a smooth finish. Although the new floor is still in the drying phase (it's been a few days), it already looks great and gives off a modern, seamless appearance. The only minor drawback I noticed is that the surface is a bit slick. To address this, I plan to use a shower floor mat for added safety until I see how it performs with regular shower use over the coming months. Overall, I’m pleased with how this kit has transformed my shower floor, and I look forward to seeing how it holds up over time. If you're considering a DIY project for your shower floor and aren’t too experienced with epoxy, I would definitely recommend giving the Armoglaze Refinishing Kit a try!

I have waited to complete 50 days of testing this product before writing a review. I repaired the floor of my shower stall, a single piece acrylic unit. The floor surface area is probably only 1/3 of the surface area of a full bathtub, but I bought the full package and split the two mixing component perfectly in half, saving the other half for a boat repair job. The application was not difficult for someone accustomed to home repair. Follow all instructions exactly as laid out for the product. In my before / after photo, you can see that I had to "gut" a large section of the tub. There was a crack about 3 inches long and another crack about 1/2 inch long. When I finally decided to conduct the repair, I wasted time exploring the underside of the shower unit (it is accessible from the basement). These units are built well with a 2-3 inch base, including fiberglass mesh and strong plywood. The problem was not support, it was a thin layer separation due to poor adhesion of the finish layer on top, essentially the acrylic coating on the original shower unit had raised off the support base. As I peeled away at the crack, I found that the surface layer was 1/8th of an inch raised off the support structure, hence, a heavy step in the right location causes too much pressure and the original acrylic snapped. After gutting out all the separated acrylic surface and rounding all edges with an angle grinder and sander, I filled the entire unit with professional gold Bondo body filler according to instructions. It is important to ensure the finished, sanded surface is as smooth and level before adding the Armorglaze. If there is even a tiny ripple or a pocket, the Armorglaze product will follow the contour and the ripple or pocket or dimple will show up. I knew this and was careful, but on final inspection, I found two spots that I did not quite finish as well as I should have. However, they are so small, only I notice and they are in the corners where it as tough to access. The drain-cover process is tedious and requires a couple of hours of constant wiping and cleaning. I have worked with thin-set applications of concrete and I believe it is important to follow the instructions and make sure the finish layer you apply is 1/16 inch or less, as instructed. This thinness provides more flexibility when fully cured. Also, one issue is color. The product is pure white, my unit is off-white. However, as I was careful to do the entire bottom from a fixed line (I have a steady hand and I did this by eye, not tape) and allowed the product to drip from the cup and poor down off the wall, about one inch up from the curved side. It looks like it was made that way, almost like a two-tone finish. Honestly, with shadows and not so bright light in the shower unit, I don't think a visitor would even notice. It would be nice if the product came with a compatible yellow dye to add by drop with a color comparison chart to alter the color to various shades of off-white. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck! I will update this review if necessary.

Don't be fooled by thinking that this product is a cure all to a damaged tub. It may not necessarily be the entire fault of the product.....perhaps your tub just need to be replaced. Here's my story....My first attempt with this product failed because it never showed up and after 3 weeks was given a refund. I reluctantly ordered again based on the positives reviews. My tub had some mild chips to the original glazing around the rim and a few on the bottom where you would stand. I prepped tub by removing all caulking and sanded smooth the original glazing so the new would not chip up with the old. This process took approximately 2 hours. Tub was cleaned and prepped at the video demonstrated. Realize the video instructions provide no commentary.....only demonstration with some really great background music. Some commentary explanation would have been helpful for sure. No explanations on how to get rid of bubbles or drips....we have to make the assumption that time and the heat gun will facilitate these imperfections. Pouring the product on is fairly simple as is the spreading/coverage. It is a mess however....the guy on the video has some mad skills and makes it look clean and simple. While it is not difficult it is messy. Make sure you tape off and have plastic on floor, walls, really anywhere you do no want glaze. Also come prepared to have your legs and back get a workout...lost of bending and crouching. Overall we were pleased with the end product, it looked nice. Yes we have a few minor imperfections but we chalked that up to being above average do-it-yourselfers that have never done a project like this before. Te entire project including prep, application and clean up took approximately 6 hours. We let the new glaze dry/cure for 5 days prior to use. The shower was used 12 times before the product began to discolor and crack. Approximately 1/3 of the tub lost the luster/shine and began to discolor. The crack is approximately 2 inches in length. I enclosed photos of the before, after and failure of the product. You can see that it loos very nice upon completion, but it does not last. Perhaps this product would work better if the tub is mildly discolored to begin with only....however I am skeptical at this point. I realize now that tubs are not meant to be repaired. My advice is to invest in remodel with new tub. Not a angry customer seeking compensation....not my intention of this review. I own responsibility for trying a quick fix to a larger problem. Some things just are not intended to be fix. Good luck if you do pursue to use this product, I hope if works better for you than it did for me.