Motive Products 0107 Power Bleeder 2-Quart Tank with Hose and Adapter, Compatible with Mid-Late Model Ford Vehicles

I bought this unit to bleed the brakes on my Ford and, although I normally never write product reviews, I decided to write this one because I think the product worked really well and the company deserves some business. The unit looks like it's a suprisingly decent quality tool. I was expecting a cheap throwaway like one gets so often now, but this unit was nicely put together and everything fit and worked really well. It's not going to be up to industrial specs, and is simple in design, but well thought out, i think. There seem to be several variations or models of this bleeder, so go to the manufacturer website to see which unit fits your car/mcyl (they have a cross ref chart there). Beyond that, this unit is really easy to use and makes bleeding brakes a one man job. Fill the unit with bfluid, screw the top/pump assembly on the bottle, put the adaptor on the car's Mcyl, pump the unit up to 15 psi, and start making your way around to all the wheel cylinders/calipers - work from far to near in relation to the Mcyl when bleeding. I went through a lot of bfluid in order to flush everything thoroughly so I had to repressurize (pump up) the cannister a few times(as is expected), but i think that you get a lot of flow before you have to repressurize the cannister. Other than monitoring the pressure from time to time, it was a simple matter of cracking the line at each wheel cylinder/caliper and watching for clean flowing fluid without bubbles. By the way, there is a video on Youtube, which i found by accident, showing how the unit works. That is how i came across this machine in the first place. The unit is a piece of cake to use, works really well and is totally worth the money, in my opinion. If you decide to buy it and then get another car, it seems that you can just get a new adapter to fit that new car, which is a nice feature as well.

Makes bleeding brakes by yourself super simple and easy. I’ve bleed brakes using pneumatic bleeders, vacuum pumps and the old fashioned two man method, this pressure bleeder is hands down now my favorite method. I purchased this kit #0107 to use on my 08 Ford Expedition, the adapter is a tight fit at first I thought it was the wrong adapter at first but all it takes is a little wrangling to get on and once set onto the reservoir a 45 degree turn locks it snugly into place. I marked my adapter with a mark from a silver paint pen so I could visualize the 45 degree turn on and off. Getting the adapter to release takes some torque and I’m not able to get a good grip with my hands so I found that channel locks work perfectly. The mark I put on the adapter was helpful to know the cap position to keep from twisting to far in either direction. Don’t bother purchasing the Brake fluid catch bottle, make your own using a water bottle and a piece of 5/16 hose purchased at any hardware store. Drill two holes in the bottle cap, one for the hose and a smaller second one for venting and you have a catch bottle for cheap that will last you years.

The good: this makes bleeding your brake system a piece of cake. No pumping the peddle, no twisting the bleeder screw in and out, and no doubts about the result: clean, bubble-free system and a rock hard peddle. All in a matter of minutes, assuming your bleeders aren't stuck. The bad: there is no way this was going to fit the master cylinder of my 2001 Ranger with the supplied 1/8" thick o-ring. The o-ring provides a seal between a cylindrical core of the pressure cap and the wall of the master cylinder throat. The tolerance is too tight for the ring to compress into the space provided. After struggling with it for about 45 minutes, enough was enough. Solution: replace o-ring with a 3/32" inch version in the same 1 1/8 I.D. size. The lid now goes on easily yet firmly and held pressure at 15 pounds without a problem for the duration of the bleed. This might be a fitment issue on my particular MC. YMMV. Given the amount of complaints over this issue regarding the Ford version, I think it might behoove Motive Products to include a thinner ring to give customers the option or replacing the thicker ring when it is not ever going to work. Once it fits, it's a five star product.

2 man method brake bleeding failed miserably on my 2003 Ford Taurus. Had to take my car to auto shop to have it done correctly. With this unit I bleed brakes effortlessly. Firm pedal every time, no bubbles in brake lines. Works great on 2003 Ford Taurus, 2000 Nissan Quest and 2011 Nissan Rogue. I use it also on my 2019 Honda Pilot but with CTA 7030 adapter. Again, no leaks and effortless one man brake bleeding with firm pedal and no air in brake lines. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

TL;DR - Unit works great, support is lacking. Update - Incorrect parts arrived. I'm giving up and returning this and hope the next one isn't broken. Unit arrived missing the bezel that holds on the glass on the pressure gauge. This means that the gauge can be easily damaged but doesn't affect the usability. Can't return unit for replacement, have to do a return and then order a new one. Option unavailable to return due to damage for some reason. Called company, got ahold of someone who said they would send out the replacement part. Since the part was supposedly coming I went ahead and successfully used the unit on my truck. Worked great. Part still isn't here after over 3 weeks. Annoying because it is sitting on my workbench taking up space until the part arrives. If it takes much longer I'll have to give up and return it and order a new one and hope I don't get the same one back since I can't flag it as broken. If the part ever arrives I'll happily change my rating as the unit worked great but at this point I sorta wish I'd just gotten one of the crappy imported copies as they seem to have a better grasp of customer service.

I got tired of my wife's complaining every time I bled the brakes on one of my trucks (3), which seem to have more than their share of brake issues. Today I went to work on a Ranger that was pulling severely right when braking; correcting made me look like a drunk. I figured it was air in the driver's side line. I started on the passenger side because it's a longer run and a few bubbles came out and then a lot. I've seen this before, it's air sucking in past the bleeder screw. I don't know of any way to prevent this other than opening the screw to get a barely perceptible flow. I've thought of daubing the screw with Vaseline but I'm not sure that wouldn't also get sucked in (I doubt it) and I'm not sure where it would end up if it did. Someone please try it and let me know how it worked (you know; "I'm not gonna eat it, let Mikey try it"). Or if a true mechanic has the answer, please post a reply. Then I went to the driver side and expected to see some bubbles but only got about 1/4" of fluid into the drain tube; the line was blocked. I left the screw open a bit and pressed on the pedal and it took a great deal of force to depress, confirming a blocked line. My wife never knew the pedal should go down easily so she never told me. If there were no problem, I could have easily bled the brakes by myself but, bonus, this disclosed a blocked line that I never would have found with my wife working the pedal. My only issue with this unit is that the tubing from the pump is of a fairly large diameter, more than necessary. And being about three feet long, it takes quite a bit of fluid just to fill the tube before attaching the cap to the reservoir. The tubing has crimp clamps which may require a larger diameter, so that may be the reason. In any case, it's a minor issue. I see that another reviewer complained about a 8" long tube. I'm sure he was referring to the bleeder bottle as the pump unit has a 2-3 foot tube. I would not buy the bleeder bottle. I did and the only good thing I can say about it is that it has a narrow tube made of very pliable (surgical?) tubing that stretches to fit any size bleeder valve. I have a lot of various tubing from Home Depot and don't need this. Cheap tubing into any bottle will suffice. It's best if the tubing reaches the bottom of the bottle. Edit: In reading other reviews, he was referring to the tube included with this unit and he's correct, it's too short. My comments on the bleeder bottle still stand; it's a pass. Summary: This thing is great. It definitely makes a one-man bleed job a piece of cake and, in my case, disclosed a problem that a two person job wouldn't have. So four thumbs up from here, two from me and two from my long-suffering wife. Addendum: I bought the Ford adapter and it's perfect. It uses a rubber O ring and takes a bit of force to get on and off, just be careful not to crack the reservoir. Also, visually line up the three tabs before trying to push this on. It takes significant force and I'm not able to tell whether the tabs aren't lined up or if it just needs more force. You can't do it by feel. Lube the ring with brake fluid first and go slow, work it gently but FIRMLY. I haven't bought any other adapters, but it's nice to know I won't need to buy a complete unit for a different vehicle.

This item might work, but the hard part is getting a cap compatible with your car. I have a $78 useless item sitting here. The product I have does not fit my brake fluid reservoir. It is difficult to pick the correct cap on Motive's website because many of the caps say "Fits most Fords" etc. Motive responded quickly when researching. However, once I contacted them for help, the responses dramatically slowed. They don't answer the phone. They never called back all week. Email responses slowed to 3 days or longer, but provided no help. All they did is ask, "Did you try the other o-rings?" This cap I have will not secure to my reservoir, so different o-rings are not an issue. All the o-rings have been tried. I will follow-up if they ever respond or resolve this issue. I did order a 0107 and mine says 1107.

Ok, just a little background.After purchasing this for my Nissan Frontier and it arrived I immediately took it out of the box, hooked it up and tested it. Well, it just wouldn't seal. At first I couldn't figure out why, then I got the feeling that it wasn't actually going down far enough into the master cylinder. I got my calipers and started taking measurements. It ended up that the barrel on the cap was ever so slightly larger that the diameter of the master cylinder. I got in touch with Motive and they had me send the cap back to them for testing. The result was that it fit on their testing jig. Knowing that these things are probably molded I figure there is going to be some variance in some dimensions. My hope was that there might be one withing their stock that would meet my needs. I asked them if they could look thru their stock and find one that was smaller than the diameter on my master cylinder. They took a little time to do just that and finally they did contact me and tell me that they had found one and they shipped it off to me. I took it out right away just to check the fit and it seemed to work fine, but I wouldn't know for sure till I could get out and work on my brakes. I finally got out there this weekend and at first I couldn't get a pressure seal. I was disappointed in that an was ready to give up. I started to take off the cap on the bottle when I realized it was loose. I tightened it up and tried it again and this time it held the pressure. Hallelujah. The end result is that I was able to do my brakes and it worked great. I really appreciate the time that Motive took with to get this resolved. It helped that I had a set of calipers to measure the diameter as otherwise it may not have been resolved. Kudos to Motive Products for working with me and taking the time to converse and also to spend time going thru their inventory to find a cap that worked for me.

I would have to say this was my best purchase in helping me with bleeding my brakes and clutch myself. Other then a small leak where the 2 hoses connect which could be fixed with some teflon tape I would say this worked wonder! Extremely recommended this if you have a STi 15+. It comes with the adapter that works for a 16 STi

Easiest way to do DIY fluid change..

Pressure bleeding is better than vacuum because no chance of air getting in the brake line. Fit perfectly for 2007 Tucson. i put two wrap of Teflon on the tube connection. No air leak. Must line up 3 tabs on cap with reservoir and use a bit a force to push down the cap whiling holding the reservoir at the bottom. The flow rate was slow on rear wheel because of long brake line and rusted screw. Next time i will buy a new car. and will flush brake lines every 2 years so the bleeder crew wont be seized.

It leaks about 2 psi a minute!

Waiting for another specialty tool for my vehicle scenario. Seems nicely made & will last longer if you use the "dry method" don't put fluid in the tool tank, fill reservoir instead". I'm not going to elaborate to much go look online, wish there was a release valve instead of unscrewing the cap off. A release valve would alleviate the pressure & relieve damage wear and tear off the seal so it does not indirectly wear main seal on screw cap of tank from air pressure release. It seems like a pretty sturdy seal. Very simple method, had to buy reservoir cap seal adapter kit, couldn't find a Chrysler adapter. Kodos , to the people at Motive products for their imagination to create an effective simple device & the advice from the seller. My mission seemed a bit expensive, after the penetration oil works out my rusty bleeder valves perhaps will update this review.Not to mention there are 5 other cars within my immediate family that actually need the brake fluid changed. Guess you are suppose to do that now, never did it in the old days unless something failed.