PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA

**** Review edited after communication with seller and using item for about a month and a dozen prints or so. Original review included at end for posterity. ****I think I screwed up applying the first PEI sheet that I purchased because I did not wait long enough after cleaning the glass plate with IPA before applying the PEI sheet. This caused bubbles once the assembly was heated up to printing temperature, making the print surface uneven and requiring removal of the PEI sheet which was then impossible to reapply and made a big mess.After reaching out to the seller for advice, they sent me a replacement sheet and were very kind and helpful with giving advice on how best to get it to work for my application and clean up the mess I had made.Once the second sheet arrived, I followed the included instructions again. This time I gave the IPA ample time to evaporate before applying the PEI sheet to the glass and everything went smoothly. I also waited about a day after applying the sheet before heating it, and then let it sit at 60C for a couple hours before going to 110C to print ABS.So, how does it print? LIKE A DREAM. Going to this product from the original Elder 3 Pro magnetic surface is like night and day.First up, this over a glass sheet is completely flat! I was finally able to truly get my bed level. And best of all, I haven't had to re-level the bed in over a dozen prints.I prepped the surface with 800 grit sandpaper (didn't have the 600 that is recommended on hand) - just doing light circular scuffs over the print surface. This makes prints stick evenly and well. I've really had to try to get adhesion failure (printing a circle on it's side is still not going to work). Best of all, prints pop off cleanly once the surface cools down. Even large prints with a lot of adhered area (4"x4" for instance) pop off cleanly. I have not had any lifting up at the edges or any sagging like I used to have with ABS on the oem Ender 3 Pro surface.Cleanup is equally a breeze. Unlike the oem Ender 3 Pro surface the 3D print material does not get stuck into the rough surface. After a dozen prints the surface still looks and performs as well as on the first print. All I do for cleanup is wiping the surface down with some household IPA prior to printing. By the time the bed gets up to temp (I print at 110C) the IPA is evaporated and the print sticks nicely. Best of all, if the print surface starts having issues I will be able to renew it bu scuffing up with sandpaper again. The PEI sheet is about 1mm thick, so it will last a long time yet!**** Original review starts below. Lessons learned are not to rush and to let the IPA fully evaporate before applying the PEI sheet. ****Looks like a nice product, made in the USA. No idea how well it prints yet, since I didn't get that far.Applied to a sheet of glass (also from Amazon). Cleaned glass beforehand with IPA, (instruction sticker says to use IPA to clean the PEI sheet so figured it would be safe). Adhesive is very tacky, but I was able to get it attached to the glass on the first try with no bubbles at all (use the rolling method, like the description recommends). All was good, no bubbles at 60C per installation instructions.Went to print ABS, and got it to 110C and noticed BIG bubbles forming right in the center of the sheet, wasn't able to get them out without peeling up the edge, which ruined the adhesive throughout (torn / clumped up adhesive so the sheet wouldn't stick flat anymore).Now I've got a PEI sheet and a glass plate both covered in bits of very tacky adhesive. Not good. Going to try cleaning it off then maybe sticking it down with something else, but don't know what would stand up to the ABS printing temperatures. Will probably just have to return it... :/

I was having adhesion issues on the stock glass bed (with texture) for the Anycubic Mega SE. I tried IPA, soap and water, saltwater film and at best was losing 1/3 of my prints, maybe more. It was time to try PEI.Installation was simple. This is like a big sticker, or the protective shield for a cell phone. I removed the glass bed, cleaned with IPA (rubbing alcohol), stuck this sheet on, and let it warm at 60 deg for a while. All this is in the clear instructions. I re-leveled my bed and ...the first print, and the next 15+ prints (still going) stuck flawlessly. Incredible. Since this was a thin sticker I did not need to change any z-offset values. The same prints that I had loaded (and were failing)Two things I noticed:1. the bottom side of all my prints are crazy smooth now. Glass-like.2. The prints are very hard to remove. Adhesion is through the roof! I found the best way was to slide an exacto knife under the print and then peel, or, knife right into the side the of the print and lift the corner. I hesitate with the scraper (metal) because I don't want to scratch the surface. Pulling hard works sometimes too (just dont't shatter the glass!)So that is a slight downside but negligible when compared to the hassles of a print not even starting! (or coming loose mid way through). Printer is running again full time. I've very pleased and will order this again if I need to.

I had been using spring steel pei coated sheets for my bed surface but always had issues leveling my bed. Once I upgraded to a bltouch I was finally able to see why. Small parts were never really an issue but larger parts were. The bed itself was concave and more so the further away from center. Since I already had the glass sheet that shipped with my printer I thought why not try this product. The result was an incredibly flat surface by comparison and unmatched adhesion.It's easy to apply. All I did was carefully unroll the backing as I pushed air bubbles out along the way after thoroughly cleaning the glass with soap and alcohol . I've never had an issue with air bubbles, deformations, delamination etc. Once applied, I trimmed the remaining with a razor.The new surface made for some mirror like finishes on parts touching the bed. The only issue was getting the part off of the bed. The best method I've found is to force a razor blade or box knife carefully between the print and the bed. Then, push the blade further under the print until I can fit a metal spatula/scraper under the print. Finally, I move the scraper around until enough of the print becomes free from the surface. Most parts pop off of the bed violently as the adhesion finally breaks. The process isn't especially difficult but the bed gets scratched in the process. The scratches transfer to the print perfectly so that mirror like finish becomes a hazy mess of perfectly recreated blade marks. Smaller parts are easier to remove than larger parts but require the same process.Overall I got what I wanted, a cheap flat surface that holds better than plain glass. I'm now able to get my bed tolerance to less than .1 within a few minutes and that has made a big difference in my prints.

I had a BuildTak-like surface that came with my Wanhao Di3+ clone. It worked okay for PLA, but PETG didn't want to stick that well to it. So I ordered a silicone pad, a borosilicate glass square, and this PEI sheet. I ripped off the old print surface, then put down the silicone pad, glass, & PEI sheet.Before I begin heating the bed before every print, I wipe down the PEI sheet with 99% isopropanol. PETG (which is what I primarily print in) sticks well to this (sometimes too well). My prints need a thin spatula after printing/cooling to be pulled off, but I've never had to wrestle with the bed to get them off the PEI.I've read PEI works better when heated, so those of you who print on cold/cooler beds may not find this material as useful, but it definitely solved my adhesion issues with PETG (and PLA still prints fine on it).If it picks up some tool gouges or you still find that filament's not adhering well (and you -know- you have a flat, level bed under it), you can take some high-grit sandpaper to it to resurface it a bit. You can also use acetone (don't use nail polish remover - it has other stuff in it) -once in a while- to help restore adhesion; don't use it often, though, as it can degrade the material with frequent use.Applying the sheet took some care (the 3M adhesive is a little touchy). Cutting it to size was easy enough (score it well with a sharp blade, then just fold until it snaps). When you put it onto your print bed, though, make sure you apply from one corner or side and -slowly- roll down the rest of the sheet (you're trying to avoid air bubbles being trapped under the surface).If your printer's working great as-is, awesome! If you are having trouble with adhesion and have eliminated other areas as potential culprits, give the PEI sheet a try.

I recently switched from the magnetic buildtak to a textured glass bed (carbon silicon) on my Ender 3 Pro. Firstly, I love the adhesion I get with the buildtak as long as the initial layer surface area isn't too large. I've used PLA, PETG, TPU, and even ABS on it. The BLTouch helps but printing something very large in the X and Y axes just doesn't work well. Hence the transition to glass.I immediately had adhesion issues with the glass bed whether it was the first layer or warping later on. I tuned everything; PID, extrusion, linear advance, etc but still had issues. It just didn't adhere the same as the buildtak. I also don't like the idea of using glue sticks or hairspray.Finally, I bought this PEI sheet and threw it on the backside of my glass bed (non-textured side) in case I want to switch easily. I was printing with PETG at the time and tried it out. Adhesion was great but I did get warping on a very sharp corner (~25 degree angle). Other prints did not warp. Then I tried PLA+ and PLA. 50 degree bed temp. Perfect first layer adhesion and no warping! No squishing the first layer in and dealing with elephant's foot either. It just works.

This PEI sheet makes bed adhesion worries and frustrations mostly go away.Since getting this there are very few failed prints due to bed adhesion issues.Works fantastically for PLA, at least as well as boro glass, and I don't prep the surface with anything.The catch is, to get it to work as well as all the raving reviews and product description say, I had to sand it with some 1000-grit sandpaper basically right out of the box; bed adhesion was much worse than boro glass until I did this. It seems like this is not a common thing where this only needs to be done after a large amount of printing, so maybe a defective sheet or something, but I made it work and it has been a wonderful experience; if adhesion starts to degrade you usually just need to wash the PEI with some water and dish detergent (make sure to use a surfactant like Dawn or other high-quality detergent) and it's right back to being awesome; I clean between prints with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol as well.I have a Creality Ender 3, it's a super fun and amazing device and this PEI sheet is part of what makes it amazing.Update:It's amazing that so many materials stick to this. This has been my go-to build surface for the last few months and half the time stuff sticks a little too well, not a terrible problem to have!! Even been printing with some Priline CFPC filament and it sticks!!! Abs, PETG, and PLA all adhere exceptionally well to this. It requires occasional resurfacing which take less than 5 minutes usually. I'm excited to try new filaments with this sheet, maybe some HIPS and some TPU. This product has vastly improved my 3D printing experience!!

I bought this PEI sheet in conjunction with a Borosilicate Glass print bed for my Ender 3 Pro. It is, hands down, the single best upgrade I've made to the printer. Bed adhesion has been a huge problem for me using the stock magnetic print beds. I've had prints shift, prints move, and even had prints fall off the entirely bed! First layer adhesion was also hit or miss on the stock bed; often requiring two or three attempts before the print would go down evenly.These problems are No. More.The PEI sheet has seemingly magic adhesion to my PLA prints - they don't move in the slightest. The first layer doesn't just stick 'well', it sticks with unbelievable power. Fine details and small holes can now be printed on the first layer with reliable precision. Tall prints used to scare me, now I don't fear them wobbling, tilting, or falling over at all. The finished print's first layer has a glossy-smooth surface that reflects like glass when observed at the right angle, making for some super sexy first layers! Believe the hype!There are two minor caveats to be aware of, however:1) Installing the sheet onto the glass bed surface wasn't super easy. The PEI sheet comes pre-applied with super powerful 3M glue, and you're only going to get one shot at applying it correctly. I watched some YouTube videos before hand of others doing it first, and I'm glad I did. If you roll the backing off slowly and evenly onto the glass bed, you can apply the sheet without trouble. Really take your time in both plan and execution on this one.2) The PEI adhesion is almost too strong. Some of my larger prints have had to go into the freezer before I could pop it off. The paint scraper tool that the printer came with can also get it started, but I'm nervous about scratching the PEI sheet up while hacking at a print. I'm sure with some further use, and tweaked print settings, this con will abate, but it did surprise me. I could probably pick the whole printer up by these prints without anything budging or detaching at all, the bond is *that* strong!

When I first got this PEI sheet I loved it. Everything would stick first try! But, it only lasted for a dozen or so prints before the surface changed in appearance, looked almost hazy and became more slick to the touch. Before, the surface was glassy but slightly grippy similar to a good layer of hairspray once its cured. After the dozen prints nothing would stick in the hazy areas and I had to discard the sheet. Back to hairspray I guess. Not really worth it unless you're willing to spend $15 every few prints and the hassle to remove the sheet from your build surface.

I used this for a custom printer's build surface; cutting it down with scissors was trivially easy. It was difficult to get it applied perfectly without debris underneath the heatbed, but I did end up getting it close enough.As far as thermal resistance goes - the adhesive performs as advertised. I've run the bed at 130C for extended periods while printing exotic materials, and the PEI shows no sign of delaminating from the spring steel sheet.The build surface itself sticks reasonably well, though it's still not great with uncooperative materials like CF-ABS. I use dollar-store water-soluble glue sticks for better adhesion; with that, it works like a charm and still releases easily upon flexing the build plate.

PLA, TPU, and PETG all stick to this PEI Bed real well. The problem I am having is these filaments stick too well to the PEI surface . I've damaged many of the prints removing them from the PEI surface. On the web others say to coat the PEI surface with a layer of hair spray, Windex window cleaner, or Peanut oil to help reduce the adhesion but the prints were still a fight to get off even then. I do like the nice smooth bottom surface of the 3d print after you get it off. I even left the 3d print on the bed over night and it was still a fight to remove the print from the PEI surface.