Southern Ag Liquid Copper Fungicide, 32oz - Quart

Been reading up on the little bugs that seem to invade our apples and peaches. I used a fungicide in spring during pre-flowering, and follow up with insecticide after pedal drop, but some little devils always invaded and caused harm to fruit. Turns out there are eggs that lay dormant in the bark late fall and winter and come out early to invade before the insecticide is sprayed. This copper sulfate kills those dormant eggs.😁 We’ll see if this helps the harvest and quality of fruit this year. I’m optimistic it will. Certainly worth the cost and effort to spray in January and October.

MIRACLE HAPPINESS. pine trees can get bagworms that eat the pine needles, that wasnt my problem. (if you do have any type of pine tree/ bush and have bagworms ugly black worms that turn into white moths, and eat the pine needles, or bush leaves, get bifiden) my problem was a fungus that makes the needles fall off and from growing again called needlecast. i have many pine trees and 3 were really bad 1 almost gone, trying to save it. after one dousing good application and fertilizer stakes to encourage new growth, several that has some of this are like new. 2 of the 3 which were really bad are almost there, and 1 which was almost dead with no needles, I am trying to bring back. the bad and kinda bad ones i did 2 applications so far 2 weeks apart, bc it rained a lot. but this stuff kills the fungus and the needles come back. it makes enough for me to use it for 5 years this little container. WORD TO THE WISE. after you mix this with water, only a couple oz are needed per gallon, use the mix, if you let it sit it gets ugly stick black, use it and rinse the container out. dont spray near a white fence, will turn black. clean up any that spills when you mix right away and no problem. its really dark blue. thought it would be green. was surprised. I am going to spray the really bad trees every 2 weeks until like new, and the ones with a little bit just april, june, and sept. also for really good growth and vibrant pines, put the fertilizer stakes in april after ground isnt frozen, and in sept. i didnt fertilize them in sept. before but now i do. much better looking trees. if you happen to smell it in the wind, you get a faint catpiss scent. very faint. dont spray too close to your house it can stain the siding, shingles, paint, or dont do it on windy day. I would imagine if you have to spray close to house, if you have garden house on and ready you can just rinse it off it you do it right away

While I don't have the lab equipment to prove if this saved my squash plant, I've never seen a recovery quite like it. One of my summer squash seedlings was most likely dying of root rot. After a week of non-stop showers and unseasonably cold temperatures, it had wilted so much it was lying flat. I had already lost three of the same plant a few weeks earlier. As I was using this as a pre-treatment for my peppers, I used this on my dying squash figuring it would good to get the fungicide in the soil for the next thing I planted. The squash seedling completely recovered! In all my years of gardening I've never seen a seedling so far gone ever recover, especially since squashes have some of the most delicate root systems out there. We'll see if this keeps my other plants healthy throughout the season as I had a lab confirm I have quite a bit of pathogenic fungi in my soil.

decent product BUT it stains and its literally impossible to dose out of the bottle it comes in. They REALLY need to put this in a better bottle. I have had to dump it and use an old dosing bottle . Guaranteed to Spill and die something. So frustrating

This worked like magic on my tomato blight. Tried commercial fungicide and neem oil which were worthless. I used 10 to 15 teaspoons per gallon mixed with silicon and some liquid dish detergent for a surfactant. It rained shortly after application so I reapplied and reapplied frequently. It is the rain and the heat that is the main cause of blight or fungus as you will so it may seem like you are winning the battle however this is not the case. Tomato blight is mainly caused by heat from the sun and humidity and rain so the only way to really treat this disease is to keep the plants cool as possible and do not listen to anyone who says tomatoes need full sun as that is the biggest lie in the gardening world. Diseased foliage must be removed daily and disposed properly to restrict further spreading but the real enemy is moisture and heat so control sun exposure after the plants are a month old otherwise just live with the disease.

Works great for my trees and berries.

It killed my lawn fungus

I use this stuff to kill diseases on my peach tree and plants around the house. Works well A+++++