RUST BULLET Automotive - Metallic Gray - 1 Pint - Rust Inhibitor & Protective Coating for Cars, Trucks, & Metal Surfaces, UV Resistant, No Topcoat Needed

Five star review. This rust inhibitor paint is the best stuff one can buy on the market and even the army and navy and major architecture landmarks use it and has two genuine patent awards. Does that tell you something? It will save your precious automotive vehicles or any metal items from rusting or worsening condition. There's a lot to study about the right application and best results for this paint but I'll break it down. The photos show my cars undercarriage so in my case it is an automotive project. Use a conjunction of products from rust bullet for best results, metal blast, the paint, and clear coat. You also require disposable brushes from the dollar store, nitrile gloves, mask, overalls, goggles, PPE. Bloxygen too if your going to reseal the paint can. 1. Clean the undercarriage of the car, prep work, use a garden hose and wire brush to scrape off oil and dirt etc. Remove loose rust. Step 2, when totally dry you'll jack the car up and spray metal blast dissolving the rust and creating an adhesion to the metal so when you paint it'll stick. It undergoes a chemical reaction. Let sit for 20 min or so, then rinse with garden hose and dry. Or it'll keep eating at it. Step 3, paint in a garage indoors is a must with temp 50-80 F and no rain, 1st paint coat by brush and 4-6 H dry time, important, don't wait more than 12 H after 1st coat, it'll harden so do 2nd coat after it's dry. Filler, then sealer. Do 2nd coat, let dry, boom, ready for two clear coats next, 2-4 H dry time and when every nook and cranny is covered just wait 72 H or less, full cure time before exposure to outdoors. It'll make the metal look brand new and shiny with the clear gloss. You won't see any rust underneath. It's not that expensive and should be used way more often in a automotive world of mistreatment and any vehicle with this conjunction of paint will last forever. The paint acts as a filler, stopping the rust, it's water resistantance is unbelievable, I got a good amount of paint on my hands and the water evaporates within seconds and the stickiness is the bond to the metal so it's staying there in form so long as the car body is there too. Superior barrier on the metal, recommended to do the undercarriage first and then take car panels off, (fenders, bumpers,) and paint the wheel well areas and inner frames especially. You can do the trunk and bench seat areas too if your really into it but especially undercarriage area for winter driving. The finished surface is smooth as glass with clear coat, water just runs right off it and evaporates. Any dirt and such will barely stick on and can be cleaned easy with hose and soft brush occasionally. If you experience your project area has rusted through after painting then two options, use same color spray paint to touch up or repaint with same inhibitor paint once more because the rust was such bad shape. At most two times will do, just add more coats it'll seal off any rust. Had that happen and four total coats did the trick. Once you are done only thing to do is clean the area occasionally and inspect it. You'll never have to worry about it rusting anymore. Ventilated area is a must, strong odor and causes severe headaches so be professional when using it. It's not ordinary paint, drys like cement so cover floor with plastic sheets. Note- only pour out what your going to use in an hour and reseal the can immediately. Moisture sensitive. Opened can will last a month with bloxygen. Sealed can shelf life is 2 years minimum. Stir before use. Depending on how much rust you have or area the small 1/4 pint cans will barely cover half your undercarriage 1st coat, 1/4 PT = 6 SQ FT. A quart is plenty for 2 coats with a little extra and a pint would be enough for 1 coat. If you get paint on your hands or such use acetone and cotton ball. Removing the dry paint from a surface is near impossible. Its important to know the temperature limit too, only paint surfaces that won't exceed 450 degrees, car body areas yes, exhaust system and lines don't do or any engine bay areas either with risk of damage. Use high heat primer and paint for those areas. My project turned out phenomenal and saved my show car that I put so much time and effort into and yours can too with this wonderful paint product. If you want the best and are willing to put time and effort into it this paint is top of the line. Rust Bullet is the only product with two patent awards and no other products do. Not a cheap wd40 job that lasts a season but lasts a lifetime. Highly recommended, five star review.

So far I absolutely love it. I did it when it was a little bit too cold but it still worked out fine. I was amazed at how tough it is when I was sanding to add a 3rd coat. The clean up was ok for a natural Bristle brush in thinner. It says xylene but I just used regular paint thinner and it did ok. I got it on my skin and it was a nightmare to get off and I had to wear off most of it. I will update my review after I have had some time to see what it does and how long its gona last. I also used black industrial enamel as a top coat.

I used this on the hood of my 1972 VW super beetle and I'm about to apply it on the deck lid and roof. I used locktight rust remover gel on the small amount of rust spots, followed by a mild degreaser to wash, then applied rust bullet. It brushed on smooth, left no brush marks, covered beautifully and actually looks nice. I'm confident that this product will protect the metal while also creating a nice smooth even surface to paint over. I've had it on my hood for over a month now and its holding up well. The can is bit of a pain to open but, I'm 60yrs old with arthritis in my hands and I managed to get it off without spilling any so.....regardless of the 5 mins it took to pry it off, once I saw the performance of this product? I'd gnaw it off with my teeth if I had too (almost) to get it open the product is worth it. Don't shake the can, leave it upright, pry open and stir it well to insure you get no bubbles, and brush it on your classic vehicle with confidence. I just ordered more p!us a can of rust bullet whiteshell and a can of their blackshell which I plan on using inside and outside of my vehicle. You won't find a better product, don't let the difficult can scare u off this great product. Remember, if it gets bubbles while opening, let them dissipate before application, stir until mixed well with no bubbles for a perfect finish. Enjoy, and good luck with ur restoration project.

I used this stuff on the rusty floorboards of my 76 GMC Pickup. I went through a learning curve as it is a very unique product. I read all the instructions. One thing I had to deal with not in the instructions was the sweltering heat and humidity we've been having lately here in East Tennessee. The product is ideal for rusty surfaces. The first coat soaks in the metal and actually strengthens it, so by the time you put on the second coat you've got a thicker sealed rust resistant piece of metal. I gave it a 4 star for 2 reasons, the price seems to be somewhat expensive compared to all the rust converters and primers, second the product itself, it has a short shelf life. I had some repairs to make before the main job and had trouble later on getting the lid off the can as this stuff acted like glue and almost bonded the lid on. I wound up pouring it into plastic containers with screw caps like vitamins would come in & even then it started to get hard and thick on top, so I wound up putting plastic wrap under the lid, putting the lid on tight and keeping it in the refrigerator. So I would recommend using it another time of the year when it's not so sweltering. So it's best to just open the can and use it immediately for your project. I should have ordered a smaller can to make the repairs before opening the main container. The first time I made the mistake of not wearing gloves & it took several days for it to come off & you've got to be careful to not get it on your car seats, etc so cover stuff with plastic or a tarp etc.. I would use some kind of solvent like acetone to clean drips up etc. This stuff seems to really bond to metal as a drop got on a pair of scissors and would not come off. So I think this is an ideal product for some projects like restoring an old rusty car or some metal objects exposed outdoors to the elements.

I sprayed this in my hood and trunk area and brushed it on my wheel wells on my 1969 Beetle. Everywhere but the area in the picture got a coat of Rust Bullet blackshell coating. I also coated the underside of the floor pan with both. It is thin to brush on but coats well. It is easy to spray with a HVLP gun but make sure you clean up quickly as this stuff turns into a plastic type coating before you know it. Thin coats are better than thick ones. I would suggest 3 thin spray coats rather than the 2 coats they call for. 2 coats may be ok if you brush or roll it on. If you use a brush or roller be prepared to throw it away after using it. Some tips for using this: be careful opening the lid as you won't want to bend it for storage reasons. If you spill product on the lid sealing surface, clean it off! Use a cotton swab and thinner if necessary to keep area clean to allow the lid to reseal. This product is instantly activated when you open the can, so don't expect to store it forever after it has been opened. I have made it last 2 years somehow by resealing it carefully but I wouldn't count on that every time. Overall, I will continue to use this. It works great every time and encapsulates the rust.

I've used Rust Bullet for years on my 2000 4Runner that spent some time in the salty northeast. Prior to the salt exposure, I brushed Rust Bullet on all the common trouble areas: frame, joints, welds, etc. I then undercoated the remainder of the frame. This was over ten years ago. The areas where I applied Rust Bullet have remained 95% rust free, with only a few minor specks finally showing through here and there, likely from poor prep or rocks chips. With all rust treatments, surface preparation is critical. This applies like a paste and hardens exceedingly well. It's expensive, but a little bit goes a LONG way. Make sure to be cautious when you are first opening the can - it is very difficult to seal it up again if you don't use it all. I actually applied some cheap silicone caulk around the lip to ensure it won't harden on the shelf.

This is an outstanding product! 1 quart allowed me to paint my entire interior including roof, as well as my entire trunk. I had enough to do 2 coats. This is on a 1969 cutlass, so it’s a pretty big car. I don’t paint much but the Rust Bullet applied so easily that I’m not sure how you could goof this up, the final result was great. I really love the look! It’s best to apply 2nd coat while paint is still tacky, therefore it made it a little bit difficult the second time around. I decided to apply a top coat because I was stuck on the glossy black look, similar to por-15. I ended up using rustoleum from the big box store as its cheap and has good results. Again having to apply the 2 coats while tacky was a challenge. While it ended up coming out the way I envisioned, if I could go back I would have left the rust bullet as is. It says you don’t need a top coat and it looked so clean and the paint was so level that top coat really wasn’t necessary. My plan was to cover everything in Dynamat, so I’m not going to see it, just felt the topcoat was an added layer of protection from rust. As far as durability time will tell, I just applied this last month. I did not have a lot of rust to begin with, and with it covered by Dynamat I won’t know for sure unless I decide to remove it at some point.

If you have rust on your car and you want it to stop use this product it will dehydrate the rust so it can't go any further than it is I've used it on several cars and never seen the rust come back ever at all highly recommended