DC Boost Converter, Yeeco 150W 8A DC-DC Step Up Converter Board 10-32V 12V 24V to 10-46V Voltage Regulator Booster Module Adjustable Voltage Step Up Power Supply Module

EXACTLY what I was looking for! Used it as a constant voltage supply to charge a "defective" Ryobi 40 Volt tool Li battery. Worked GREAT. Used a bench 24 VDC power supply, stepped up (using this board) to 40.9 VDC. Did NOT overcharge the battery (kept COOL through the entire charge)! Shut off when it reached the proper voltage. The small power led was, to my surprise, a great indicator of the power supply operation. RED when the battery began charging, changing to GREEN when the battery was charged! Only con, or problem, couldn't adjust current with the voltage set at 40.9 VDC output; however, it did maintain about 300mA throughout the process.I will buy this again!!!!

I had high hopes with this converter as it is advertised with so high values but, in fact, I could not adjust the current at all during a battery charge nor could I get a constant voltage output during setup. With no load, the voltage sags a lot in the decimal range, it is not even possible to set a precise output voltage. Now, I wanted to test the current limiting feature and while my battery was charging at 2.5A, I tried to turn the current limiting trimpot and nothing changed until it reached some kind of limit on the low and it started to be way under any setting I wanted it to be. In short, it is impossible to set any current limitation on the model I received, this is dangerous if your device cannot accept more than this thing can throw. This might be a quick return as it does not stick to the description.Edit Nov 18th, 2020: I wanted to give this product a second chance so I unplugged everything and set the 2 trimpots V and A clockwise, then feed 12V @ 1A max and while trying to set it to proper voltage, I could measure 60V coming at the output!!! And while I was trying to lower the voltage, one the capacitors blew in my face like a firework!! This thing is really dangerous!! How something supposed to produce 46V max can actually produce 60V and finally blow up?

Bought this to replace a cheaper converter that failed and out-gassed an electrolytic capacitor right in my face.It is being used to convert 25V from a 6S lithium battery pack to 32 to 45V to power a tesla coil at 2.5 to 3.5 amps.So far it's pros are:1. It has a replaceable fuse built in which not all units have - this is an important safety feature if using with a battery and could even keep you from getting sprayed with electrolyte!2. It seems to be operating at close to the advertised efficiency with the relatively small voltage boost I am asking for , and it runs pretty cool to the touch3. It is surprisingly stable considering it is being bombarded by 15MHz EMI by being mounted inches from a tesla coil that it is powering4. It comes with an adjustable green/red led indicator for battery chargingCons:1. Did not come with 4 legs for mounting

Looks Great and Love the Size! but have not used it yet.

Good quality. I use them to charge my Lifepo4 batteries and i like that the light goes red when power is being drawn and green when its not. perfect for my application

Arrived well packed and on time.Very happy with it, performs as advertised. Would do again.

I bought this step-up transformer from another site, but it's the exact same device. Probably made in the exact same factory in China. I needed an adjustable CC/CV power supply capable of stepping 16.8 volts to 33 volts at 3 amps for my 100W COB LED. This one has voltage and current adjustment (critical for driving LED's), and should handle the current just fine. This is a DC-DC boost converter, or step-up transformer. It only boosts the voltage, and does not buck the voltage (decrease it below the input voltage). It has current and voltage adjustments, and there's a 3rd pot for current limiting for charging batteries. It wasn't very useful for my needs though so I ended up removing it. Specs say it can handle inputs from 10-32 volts and will boost it to 10-60 volts at 8 amps max. The 95% efficiency number is under ideal conditions, and you probably won't see that in the real world. More on this later. There's a toroid inductor in the middle, 4 "CDR" 470mF 36 volt rated 105C capacitors, a 15A automotive-style fuse for input protection (reverse polarity I reckon), 3 pots, and two transistors or MOSFETs (can't tell which) attached to two aluminum heatsinks. There's an RGB LED in the corner near the outputs to show status (red= CC/CV mode, green= power on). The input and output jacks are soldered-on screw-type terminals that don't require soldering (nice touch). There's also a fan header you can solder either a JST connector to or just some leads to attach a cooling fan. More on that later.It's cheaply made and quality control is non-existent. The PCB on the bottom had tons of solder flux left over, and some of the joints weren't fully soldered. It was built mostly on SMD, with those parts being on the bottom of the PCB, but the bigger components are through hole, which made resoldering things easier. Interestingly, there is voltage isolation on this thing around the voltage adjustment pot. Strange. I resoldered most of the connections on the PCB with high quality solder and got everything connected. The screw terminals are not captured and the nut and wire holders will fall out if you unscrew them too much. Also, the fan header is not always energized, and I am told only turns on when the device reaches a certain temperature or under certain amp loads. I verified that it either doesn't work, or you need to overheat the thing until it's failing to get it to activate. How does it work? Is adequate, but not for heavy duty use! There were internal connection issues, where gently pressing on the caps caused the LED to dim or brighten up. Resoldering the connections helped this, but it never fully went away.Once I cranked the voltage up to 33 and the current adjusted to 3 amps, everything was fine, except the current kept jumping around and wouldn't consistently settle where I wanted it, so I had to keep adjusting it to keep from frying the LED. I was also getting high pitched noises like coil whine on occasion when the current was fluctuating. After about 5 minutes of running, it started getting hot as well. I think the specs are a bit optimistic. It's rated to 8 amps (with forced air cooling), but at only 3 amps the heat sinks were almost too hot to touch.The 250 watt booster this replaces didn't get that hot. My lithium ion battery pack got really hot after 8 minutes of use, and eventually the BMS or something on the booster tripped for over/under voltage, temperature, or current which shut everything down. I'd say the real capacity is closer to 60W.Other than that, everything else was fine. I thought it was odd to see an automotive style fuse for this, but it beats diodes for input protection! The issue is that anywhere near 90-100W it falls on is face, shuts off, and has iffy current limiting, and combined with the soldering job and connection issues, it gets 3 stars. I'll be going back to the 250W booster for my big LEDs from now on.

I've tried just about every boost converter on Amazon in the 50-150W range, and this is the best one. I run mine at a 2A load at 25V output for a total 50W output, and it only gets to about 105F maximum anywhere on the board. I think this could handle 100W output pretty easily without needing active cooling. Boost output is also smooth and stable (I use this to drive LEDs). No audible noise from the board like some other cheaper offerings. If you need a boost converter in the 50-100W range, this is the one to get.