PAC RP4.2-TY11 Radiopro4 Ty11

It works just as advertised. I even bought mine "used" on Amazon for a fraction of the price and it arrived in original packaging basically open box. Model PAC RP4.2-TY11 Radiopro4 Ty11. My application is for 2005 Toyota Solara with factory JBL amp. I chose this model harness because it includes connections for steering wheel controls and fader. The wiring looks menacing, at first. 4 page Instructions walk you through it but appear to have been written with a professional installer as an audience. Some tips: ALLOW PLENTY OF TIME FOR THIS INSTALL. On a day prior to the install, familiarize yourself with all the terminals of the harness (they are labelled) and read the instructions, every word, over and over until it's totally clear to you. They are detailed and somewhat complicated. But it's totally doable. Call PAC tech support if it's not clear. There are a few unused terminals which you will need to insulate (I used heat shrink tubing, but electrical tape would work). Alow at least 1 hour to connect the wiring from this harness to the harness provided with your radio (I used and strongly recommend Posi-Products screw type reusable quick connectors). During the install, test every feature prior to reassembling the dash. Really, the install into the vehicle was the easy part. I am 51 and this was my first install since the 1980s. I pulled it off, so can you.

I installed this with a JVC 2660, and it's working great in my 2013 Toyota Highlander. Don't let all the wires scare you. Mostly, it's putting colors together, and these come with way more than they need. It's not too bad at all. I used Posi twist connectors for my wiring. They are super easy and are working great for me.

Incorporating this wiring harness in the installation of a new head unit was a lengthy process. The manufacturer directions aren't great, but if can be inferred somewhat reasonably if you compare it to the instruction manual that comes with your new head unit also. Simply match the head unit inputs/outputs wire-by-wire with the inputs to the unit and use a wirenut or another connector to bring them together. Then match up the male plugs from the unit's wiring harness to the female plugs of the vehicle's wiring harness. Some of the plugs may not be used (they weren't in my vehicle at least). All of the advertised functionalities, like steering wheel controls and integration of the stock audio system amplifier, were maintained except for the aux cord. The factory aux cord plug doesn't work, but you can leave an aux cord plugged into the back of your head unit and thread it to somewhere you can use it to circumvent this problem. I also appreciated the high quality of the unit (both computer and wires (seemed sturdy, stripped well, and not too friable)). Also there was minimal setup/programming required upon completing install. Would absolutely purchase again if I got a different vehicle and would confidently recommend to a friend.

I'd probably knock off half a star for the documentation if that were an option. Don't get me wrong, its certainly written in clear english, but often seems to assume a high degree of familiarity with various aspects of modern car audio. Personally I had to remove the head unit several times to rewire or adjust various things, but in the end got it all working. On my 07 avalon with JBL: Climate controls, Nav, front/rear fade and SWC all functional. Sound quality is good. No noticeable noise/distortion. Used to install an alpine ilx-w650 and its certainly its an improvement over the stock HU. Wish it came with male RCA ends on the audio inputs. Would recommend ordering some, ideally solderable if you're able to do that. Also, when you remove the stock stereo be sure the EQ is flat, and turn the volume all the way up (whatever the volume on the stereo is at time of removal will become the max volume for the PAC interface -at least on my vehicle). Overall I'm happy with the product. It does seem like a good value compared to the cost of separate units for the SWC, amp integration and a relocation harness. Not to mention saves you from the headache of the "old way" of relocating the factory radio I'd seen shown on some youtube videos.

does not have any directions and too many open ended wires not plug and play as advertised.

Works great for my 2017 Corolla SE so I'm hoping to let people know who may have the same car.. Easy install but I had to call them a few times. I used with the CAMTY12 and USBTY1 to keep my factory backup cam and factory USB. The song skip doesn't work every time though :\ You plug the USBty1 into the USB port of your radio that you would normally use for Carplay, and then you connect to Carplay through the factory port. I had to call about the backup cam but I forgot to connect the violet wire to my reverse on the head unit. Also, make sure you connect the parking break green wire, because I didn't and I had to unhook it all and wire that up.

The controller supports either JBL or non-JBL factory Toyota systems. There are lots of connectors to figure out and the instructions aren't very clear. It would be nice if they offered more detailed online connection diagrams like their competitors. Although there is factory camera support, but the voltage output was measured only at 5.1V, so it didn't power on the factory camera that needs 6V to function. However, this is the only controller that offers front-back fading when used with the JBL system, others don't. There's also a gain adjuster when using the JBL system. The integrated SWC and AUX support are nice. First, make sure you upgrade the firmware to the latest through RadioPRO, downloaded from their website. Then plan ahead where all the collections go, and it will make installation go smoother. Overall, it's a nice controller.

2008 Sienna with JBL and voice nav; Atoto S8 Gen 2 Ultra. It has a bulky multi-connector harness they want to work for all manner of Toyota, with multiple connectors you don't use (but need to stow behind the dash, the unused connectors are not detachable/modular). This makes the unit a bit unwieldy to handle while assembling to the radio connector, and awkward to get stowed in the dash. First one wouldn't output steering wheel control signals, and troubleshooting was painful (long waits for tech support, no written help, unclear manual, etc) but Amazon swapped it for a replacement the next morning and the new unit plugged into the harness and those controls worked. The RP4.2-TY11 wiring harness didn't include the connector to pick up the reverse, parking brake, and speed sensor wires from the existing 5-pin gray connector in the dash for the OEM radio, so I tried the included RP4.2 ODB pickup to get those signals ... this seemed to work but the next morning I had 3 spurious "camshaft positioning" error codes, and my battery was dead! (After a very very long wait, tech support told me "I haven't heard of that before" and didn't offer any advice.) Anyway, I didn't like that it was occupying the ODB pickup spot, as I want to leave a bluetooth ELM27 plugged in there, so I tossed the RP4.2 ODB option, cleared the codes, recharged the battery, and manually connected from the factory wiring direct to the radio and I've had no problem with vehicle battery or error code since then (it's been a few days) The RP4.2 provides OEM camera power, which is nice, but no adapter from the factory wiring to the RCA jack needed for the OEM camera to feed the Atoto; I had to get another (Axxess) harness for that, and it includes a 12V-to-6V converter anyway, so in the end the RP4.2 doesn't help with the OEM camera. I've lost the front/back fade control from the radio "sound field" controls - tried with "real time fade" control both off and on, but if I shift the sound field towards the rear I get just reduced signal all around - shift it all the way to the rear, I get no output at all. I just made sure it was centered before disconnecting the factory radio, leave the Atoto centered, don't mess with it. For our two-person usage that's irksome, but not fatal; might be an issue if you carrie passengers, I guess. Sound quality seems reduced (harsher), to me, but RadioPro told me they "don't alter the audio" so I guess that's a difference between the Atoto and the OEM (Denso) radio. But I'm not clear on how the RP4.2 "doesn't alter" the audio, whilst providing controls in the app for adjust equalization (treble, bass, balance, etc) - that must be something to do with controlling the factory amp? In the end, after three days spent assembling, installing (multiple times), troubleshooting and configuring my setup is working well enough. The unit, with all its wiring, is jammed into my van's dash (I'm glad the Atoto is a shallow/small unit so there's room!), I have adequate sound coming from all 10 of the factory speakers, my steering wheel controls work, and I've learned a fair bit about how the van's audio system operates.