I'm thinking of buying one but will I still be able to have my duct cleaned after it is installed? I'm the thinking it will be in the way.

Good product -- Recommended. We purchased this unit to replace the exact same original unit installed by the builder. We didn't know the blower was in our attic, so the original failed due to neglect after 11 years of service (a long time in my opinion). We did not install a separate inline filter (such as the Fantech DBLT 4W Lint trap, 4" Duct) because there is no place for us to install one unless we open up the walls and completely redo the duct system. Instead, I simply remove the unit each winter and use a duct cleaning brush attached to my drill (https://www.amazon.com/Bluesea-Cleaning-Removes-Synthetic-Attachment/dp/B08MC554YH?ref_=ast_sto_dp) to remove lint build up in the lines (you will have some) both up and down from the blower. I also remove and clean the blower unit which traps lint on both sides of the blower. After cutting electrical power to the blower at the breaker box (VERY IMPORTANT STEP), I simply remove the unit for maintenance. The goal is to remove any lint layers that have built up on the blades or walls of the unit. A set of wooden chopsticks and a shop vac make the job pretty easy. The overall job is not that difficult, but you will spend time in your attic to get this done, so proper respiration, eye safety, and electrical shock prevention are required.

I purchased 32 of these for a new apartment building. 10 of them run continuously. Does anyone know how to fix this or are they defective?

From memory, and I'm guessing here ... the switch diaphragm must be mounted vertically.The switch is activated by airflow throw the plastic tube (it's a clear tube on mine) that runs from the bottom of the fan housing up to the electrical components. Take that tube out of the housing and plug it (tape the end). Let it sit that way for 10-15 minutes and see if it still runs.If it still runs and never shuts off, you may have a defective switch.If it stops, your switch is probably good. I believe I remember that moving that tube further in/out of the housing can adjust the sensitivity. Meaning I think if you slide the tube into the housing further, the switch will activate more quickly/easily. If you pull the tube as far as it can go without taking it out completely makes it less sensitive.If you have some continuous source of airflow, obviously, the fan will blow all the time. But I thought the switch was set to stop at 10 minute intervals and never continuously run - not sure - I thought I remember this feature.

Do you nnee a lint catcher with this? Or will you be fine without it?

The rationale behind 15 ft... If your vent fan is 15 ft or more from your dryer then the lint coming from the dryer will be dry enough such that it will not stick to the vent fan blades and later create imbalance, increased load, and inefficiency. The lint needs to be fairly dry when it reaches the fan blades. If the fan is within 15 ft of the dryer the lint will still be damp and a lint trap will be needed. Get the fan at least 15 ft away from the dryer and no lint trap is needed. Note... If you do get a lint trap make sure you measure the dimensions. It may be deeper than your wall you plan to mount it in. If I remember right the lint trap is around 7 inches deep and many walls are not that deep.

can this be used with gas dryer?

It is activated by the pressure in the exhaust tube and runs on it's own hard wired power supply. I did not see anything on the product description that specifies that it cannot be used with a gas dryer. You could always contact Fantech Customer support: Customer Care10048 Industrial BlvdLenexa KS 66215Tel: 800.747.1762Fax: 800.487.9915USsupport@fantech.net

Noise Level	30 dB
Air Flow Capacity	167 Cubic Feet Per Minute
Wattage	40 watts
Cooling Method	forced air, forced convection
Power Connector Type	3-Pin
Voltage	120 Volts
Material Type	White
Item Dimensions L x W x H	6"L x 5"W x 7"H

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