OS 34308 R Engine Oil Pan Gasket Set for Jeep Grand Cherokee

I installed this with the high flow oil pump and rear main seal on a 1999 Jeep Cherokee 4.0. Might as well do them all if you are wrestling that oil pan off. If you are installing all three do not use the tools with the oil pan gasket until you are sure that the oil pump and pickup don't keep the pan from sealing right. It's a pain to keep taking off the oil pan with those tabs. I had to use my special hammer to beat the pan so the pump would clear. Look up the videos and you'll see what I mean. I packed the pump with vaseline to help prime it. I'm not sure if it was needed, but better safe than sorry. As soon as I started my jeep the pressure immediately went up to 60 PSI, and has settled to 40 psi at idle (before it would drop to 20 psi at idle). It does go high when you press the pedal, but never above 80 psi because of the relief valve. The pump is well made. There is a tight tolerance to install the pickup tube. I put the pickup in the freezer overnight to shrink it. Then you can use a wrench that fits above the collar and hit the wrench with a hammer to install it. You might also have to slightly bend the pickup to allow the oil pan to fully seal. Good lubrication and no leaks!

This oil pan gasket was a perfect fit for my Jeep Wrangler! Installation went smoothly, and it sealed up great—no more leaks. Good quality material that feels durable and built to last. Great replacement part at a solid price—definitely recommend for any DIY Jeep maintenance.

Fits perfectly well my 2001 TJ 4.0

Great gasket , was easy to install , getting prepared for the install is another story , lol

Got a Jeep with the 4.0L under the hood? This is the best oil pan gasket you can get for it. Very well made. Fairly priced. (Not a bargain, but it will last for many years if you install it properly.) Worth every penny. Follow the instructions, watch YouTube videos. Replace your Rear Main Oil Seal while you have your oil pan off, because you will have to pull your entire exhaust system to get the pan off. You really ought to do the RMS at the same time because of how much work you will have to do to get the pan off the block. Remember that the front few bolts go into the lower timing chain cover, which is aluminum, so these bolts can easily strip out the threads in the holes, ruining the part and costing you many bucks. (I cannot remember exactly which and whether it is the cover or some other part, but up front the holes are threaded into an aluminum part regardless of what it is. Much caution needs to be exercised with these holes. Trust me on this.) Further, if you do these you ought to clean up the rear of the engine block as possible. The transmission does NOT have to be pulled from the 4.0L to do the pan and the RMS. Just the exhaust has to go from the manifold out. (The manifold can stay.) Once the rear of the block is as clean as you can get it you can watch for leaks. Since the rearmost bolt on the valve cover tends to leak and the oil runs down so that it looks like it came from the RMS it is a good idea to ALSO change your valve cover gasket at this time. I used the excellent Fel-Pro parts for all of this. Great stuff. Perfect fit. Solidly made. Outstanding reputation.

Perfect replacement for my CJ7 gasket on the 4.2 L6. FelPro is awesome at making the installation easier with the 4 pins to hold the gasket in place during assembly. I see reviewers talking about leaks. Be sure you use some RTV at the corners just as the instructions state.

Good value. Worked as it should.

Works as it should.

I’ve bought this gasket several times and this is the first time that came in a grey color! Looks the same premium quality though.

One piece quality gasket. Fit perfectly.

I like Fel-Pro products as they are top quality.

Perfect fit for a 98 TJ with the 4.0 engine.

Loved this gasket, it worked perfect