Creality Ender 3 /Pro/V2 3D Printer Assembled Extruder MK8 HotEnd Kit 24V with 0.4mm Nozzle Upgrade with Low Friction Creality-Capricorn Tubing

Fits perfectly to ender 3 pro, no clogging after user error, prints effectively at what speed i need, easy to install, allows good flow for filament to adhere to the bed.

Funcionó perfectamente y no presentó problema alguno, hubiera sido bueno que incluyera un manual de instalación, pero, hay muchos tutorial es en YouTube, y es relativamente simple la instalación.

I always keep a few of these hotends around as spares. They are complete and ready to install, it's easier to change out the entire hotend than to fix some issues and for this price it's hard to go wrong. I have never had any quality issues with this product. Even if you don't want to replace the entire hotend, the parts alone make this a good deal. Sometimes I keep the old heating cartridge and thermistor as they are easier to remove from the hotend than it is to remove the wires from the loom. Then you have a spare heating cartridge and thermistor.

Tenga cuidado la garganta está mal puesta y no se quita fácilmente si lo instalas así como viene se va a taponear

I've owned an Ender 3 V2 for about two years. After a few failed prints and a blobby melted filament disaster, I couldn't seem to get my Ender 3 to work well without sputtering and clogging, and it was shelved. I tried to resurrect it with fresh nozzles and a replacement heatbreak, but it never quite worked right after that. When I realized how inexpensive it was to replace the whole hot-end, I decided to go ahead and dive in. Replacing the hot-end itself on the printer was pretty easy, and only involved a few screws to remove the plastic shroud and access the old hot-end. However, wiring it up was a lot trickier. After cutting the factory cable ties, you have to flip the whole printer on its side and remove the cover plate on the bottom. Take a bunch of reference photos of this space so that it's easier to repackage everything later. The new wires need to be fished through two expanding mesh cable organizer sleeves, which tend to want to want to fray at the ends and snag on the wires. You're better off cutting the original wires at the old hot-end and taping them to the ends of the new wire bundle so you can use them to fish the new wires through. Then, you'll need to unscrew the terminal blocks to detach the old wires, and install the new ones, and remove the tiny plug for the thermostat and replace it with the new one. The blocks on the control board were covered with dabs of hot-glue to prevent the wires from coming loose, so you'll have to pick those off with a pair of needle-nose pliers before you can access them. I found that tightening down the terminal blocks on the new wire ends took a few tries, as they're a little hard to reach and it's difficult to see if each wire tip is in the little metal clamp as it's being tightened. Give it a light tug once the screw is snug. If it comes out, unscrew and start over. Once everything is secure, it's important to bundle up excess wire and tuck it back in neatly. Watch that the wires aren't pressing on the cooling fan inside the case, as mine was, or it'll buzz horribly and you'll have to open it back up again and rearrange. Also, as you're putting the new zip ties on the cable organizer, be sure to pay attention to whether or not they're snagging on the moving parts like the bed and gantry. So for the quality of product and the value, I think it's excellent, but I do rate the difficulty of the install pretty high as the wire routing is fussy and the wiring / controller board compartment is a little tight and difficult to pack neatly.